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Sunday, September 4, 2011

Underworld

"Looking for Insider Cheat Codes Of Underworld?"
1) INTRODUCTION
 This is a FAQ/Walkthrough for "The Eternal War", a videogame inspired by (and released at the same time as) the motion
starring Kate Beckinsale as Selene, Scott Speedman as Michael (both of which you get to control in this game) and Bill Nighy as Viktor (whom you don't get to play as, but you do fight him).
This game is a shoot'em-up with slight beat'em-up touches here and there in which you get to play eight levels either as a vampire or a werewolf.
The following is a very brief introduction to how the game works, directed at those who haven't played the game yet but would like to know what kind of experience awaits them. For more thorough information, the rest of the FAQ should have what you need.
Your first step when starting a new game is to choose a race between Vampires or Lycans.
Once you start playing with one side, you will have to keep playing with them till the end unless you create another new game altogether with the other side.
So, if you have the space, you should have one file for Vampires and another for Lycans.
You also have to remember that you can't choose which levels to play, even if you have completed the game: so once you finish a level, you will invariably proceed to the next.
Bearing all that in mind, and having chosen a race, you start playing. Every mission plays the same way:
you are given a list of objectives (objectives which will virtually always start with the word "Kill" or "Protect") and your character is dropped in the middle of a level.
In order to accomplish the mission, you will have to fight hordes of enemies with a wide array of weapons you will find scattered around the level.
Different types of items and special powers unique to each race will help you in battle.
Once you have fulfilled whatever objectives you were given, you will proceed to the "Purchase Upgrade" screen, where you will buy upgrades for your abilities or stats spending the experience points you received in this level.
After buying your upgrades, you proceed to the next level, and you start all over again.
2) CONTROLS
Left Analog Stick : Move character Right Analog Stick : Aim L3 : N/A R3 : Reset Camera Position
Up : Zoom In Down : Zoom Out
Left/Right : Switch between Map modes
Start : Pause game, displaying Options menu Select : Toggle Life-Bar Display On/Off
Triangle : Use selected power
X : Select next power
Square : Select previous weapon
O : Select next weapon
L1 : Jump
L2 : Call reinforcements
R1 : Shoot (Attack, if bare-handed)
R2 : Reload weapon
3) VAMPIRES
In Underworld at least, Vampires are all about guns. One of their three powers increases their running and gun-reloading speed.
Because that's the Vampire strategy -running away from Lycans, shooting at them from a safe distance.
They are also significantly faster than Lycans, capable of outrunning them even without using Blinding Speed.
They also jump much higher and farther than Lycans, even wolf-form Lycans.
When leveling up your vampire, it is advisable to focus greatly on Health and Blood Control.
You can try and spend some points in Blinding Speed if you feel you're going to use it often, but I recommend not bothering to upgrade neither Energy nor Bloodfrenzy.
Not worth the trouble. You're going to suck at close quarters combat with or without Bloodfrenzy, and Energy items are normally easy to find.
These are the Vampire Abilities:
3.1 - Control Blood:
By far the most useful of all three Vampire abilities, Control Blood basically heals your character.
The amount of health regained depends on the ability's level; if you put some effort in maxing this ability up, you will be able to regain half your lifebar in just one use.
Another great thing about Control Blood is that, from about level 3 on, it also heals any and all vampires around you (the healing range, once again, depends on the level).
It's useful if you've ran out of reinforcements and your current bodyguards are about to die; but the real use of healing others comes in two player mode.
The situation can -and will- arise when your less experienced friend is about to die, and there are no items around.
In these cases you can radically increase their health simply by using Control Blood while standing close to them. Additionally, it's a cheap way of ensuring your victory in "Protect" missions.
3.2 - Blinding Speed:
As the name implies, using this power allows your vampire to move much quicker, as well as reload your weapons faster.
Running quickly might come in handy once or twice in a game, if you've ran out of ammo and want to dash away from battle to replenish your guns.
The reloading bit, however, isn't all that useful: it's not like the regular reloading is all that slow to begin with. I've never died just because I was attacked while reloading my weapons.
3.3 - Bloodfrenzy:
This increases the physical power of your character, allowing them to deal more hand-to-hand damage.
I don't know why you'd want to fight hand-to-hand as a Vampire, frankly, but if you ever do, make sure to use Bloodfrenzy.
Even with this ability maxed up weapons will always deal more damage, because no matter how strong your hits are it will always be quite difficult to land them on running enemies.
4) LYCANS
The best thing about Lycans is that they can transform into werewolves. As humans they play exactly like Vampires, shooting guns, even if they're slower; but everything changes in their animal form.
They rock at physical combat, and not only because their hits deal more damage than Vampires' -but because, as werewolves, their claw-swipe has a considerably wider range than the human punch, making it far, FAR easier to hit people this way.
It's normal to hit multiple enemies in a single swipe, too.
However, don't think you're going to spend the whole game in werewolf form;
if the enemy's weilding automatic guns like the assault rifle or the submachineguns, you'll receive much more damage than you'll give, simply because you'll be a perfect target while you run towards them.
If he's using grenade or rocket launchers, you might not be able of ever reaching him at all! So, even though mastering Transformation is useful, don't forget Health and/or Purge either. Rage is expendable.
Lycans can use the following abilities:
4.1 - Transformation:
By using this ability your character transforms into a werewolf. It costs a little Energy, but turning back into a human is free.
This is more than an aesthetic transformation, as virtually all your stats improve while being a werewolf.
You move quicker, deal more damage and have a greater resistance (exactly how much depends on the ability's level), ultimately turning your Lycan into a killing machine.
However, Lycans can't use weapons while in werewolf form, so armed enemies will always have an advantage.
Whether or not you want to max this ability depends on how you prefer to play the game: how do you spend most of the level, in human form or in werewolf form?
If you're fond of werewolf ass-kicking, then it's in your best interest to improve your werewolf as much as you can.
4.2 - Rage:
Just like Vampires' Bloodfrenzy, this ability increases hand-to-hand damage. Use it exclusively while in werewolf form for maximum physical damage.
Another nice quality of this power is that, in higher levels, it also inflicts Rage on nearby werewolves.
Bodyguards are never strong enough for this to make a noticeable difference, but in two-player mode this means BOTH you and your friend will have a bigger attack power while only one of you had to spend Energy on it.
4.3 - Purge:
The equivalent of Vampires' Blood Control, this is the healing ability. It works pretty much in the same way, except you can't heal other Lycans no matter how much you level it. A vital ability, and one that you want to master.
5) HINTS & TIPS
5.1 - ife Bars On/Off
Pressing Select toggles the Life Bar Display on and off. You should have it turned on permanently.
Apart from just knowing how close to death your enemies are, you can also use enemy lifebars to measure the strength of a weapon.
The colour will also allow you to distinguish between friend and foe: it's a bit difficult sometimes.
5.2 - Item Collection
If an enemy drops a regular Health or Energy item, you should ALWAYS, no exceptions, run and get it.
That's because these items vanish a few seconds after they're dropped, placing you in a "Now or Never" kind of situation.
However, regular Health and Energy items never disappear. Reinforcements, UV/Silver Nitrate Bullets, weapons and Full Health/Energy will never disappear either, even if dropped by an enemy.
That means you have to decide wisely when to use those items. As a rule, never take Full Health/Energy items unless your appropriate bar is dangerously close to zero.
Leaving items behind will prove useful in boss fights, when you might find yourself low on health.
Just backtrack and you will find your items waiting for you in the exact same place you left them in.
5.3 - Bodyguards
You start every level with two reinforcement units, each one made of two bodyguards. Your bodyguards' overall efficiency depends on the level you're playing: they get stronger and better as you progress through the game.
Bodyguards will follow you everywhere and will engage in battle as soon as they see an enemy.
Even though they are awful in battle and hardly ever kill anything, bodyguards have their uses.
Sometimes bosses attack them instead of you, giving you the chance to attack them freely. You can use them as human shields or as a diversion while you run away.
Bodyguards take damage just like everyone else, though, they don't live forever.
If you're a Vampire with a good Blood Control power, you can heal them.
If they die, you can summon one more unit of two bodyguards pressing L2, as long as you have a Reinforcements coin (you normally start the level with 2 -they're those little red circles under your Energy bar).
5.4 - UV/Silver Nitrate
Special ammunition designed to exploit the weakness of your enemies. Against Lycans you use bullets that introduce silver nitrate into their blood circulation, making them turn gray and eventually explode.
Against Vampires you shoot ultraviolet-powered bullets designed to imitate the Sun's negative effect on Vampires. They, too, end up exploding.
These bullets are insanely powerful and incredibly scarce, so choose wisely when to use them.
Do bear in mind that once you take Bullets, you will be forced to use them: you can't switch between normal and special bullets.
Whether you use them against regular enemies or save them for bosses is your choice entirely, but I encourage you to use them EXCLUSIVELY with the Handguns.
They are so powerful and scarce that you need to use them *very* carefully, so you can't afford spraying them around with the submachineguns. Don't press the trigger unless you know for sure you're going to hit the target.
5.5 - Enemy Powers
You are not the only one with Lycan/Vampire powers, you know. Regular thugs can use Transformation if they're Lycan and Bloodfrenzy if they're Vampire, but you won't see that often.
Enemy bosses and ally commanders, on the other hand, can use all three powers of their race. So be careful in boss fights!
5.6 - Leveling Up
Choose which abilities you want to level up, and do so. There's a level cap of 20 and you'll finish the game before you reach it anyway, so you won't be able to max every single power you have.
5.7 - Co-Op
Underworld has a two-player cooperative mode which makes the game much more entertaining.
The game is played exactly as it is in 1P mode, except there are two characters in the screen now. There is no credits system whatsoever: once a character dies, they're dead for good.
If you don't want to finish the level on your own after your friend foolishly ran into a giant werewolf and was, in short, eaten, all you can do is restart the level.
Apart from the mindless fun of slaying immortals in the company of a friend, do note that you can heal your companion if you're Vampires. If you're Lycans, you can inflict Rage onto your friend to increase their hand-to-hand damage. 6) WALKTHROUGH
6.1 - MISSION 1 : AWAKENING / DARK MEETING
Vampire Objectives:
-> Recover Lycan Weapons Research
-> Kill the Lycan Leaders
-> Eliminate the Berserk Lycan
Lycan Objectives:
-> Escape the Ambush
-> Protect Garth
-> Kill the Vampire Leaders
This is going to be fairly long for a first level, but you should be okay.
I suggest you use this level to get used to the gameplay. Find which weapons you like best, what each power does, etc.
Note that you can destroy all the wooden boxes piled against the walls. Note, too, that cars will explode when shot: that'll come in handy more than once.
Vampire Strategy:
Vampires start at the Southern end of the map. You have to make your way to the other end, so what you have before you is a long but linear path.
You will encounter many ambushes in your way. You should have no problem defeating everyone.
Your first real challenge should come when you reach the C- shaped part of the level, more or less at the middle of the map. Here you will face two Lycan bosses at once.
There goes the learning curve! Try to fight only one at a time, making them chase you back from where you came if you need to.
You can use the trip to retrieve forgotten items or weapons. All in all, you shouldn't have any trouble.
Once both bosses are dead, you'll have completed two of your three objectives:
the Lycan Leaders are dead and one of them dropped a briefcase containing the documents you were sent to steal.
Now you just have to defeat the Berserk Lycan, who is waiting for you at the Northern end of the map. The only remarkable trait of this boss is that he's in wolf form.
When you're fighting transformed werewolves, you must stay as far away from them as possible. They're quite deadly at close range, but they can't use weapons at all.
Use that and your naturally superior speed to your advantage, shooting at the werewolf from afar where he can't touch you.
Lycan Strategy:
You start in the middle of the map, caged. By the time you slay all the Vampires, both doors should be open (two random enemies drop one key each after dying).
Take the chance to transform into a wolf and note the difference between human and wolf gameplay. Decide which one you like best for what kind of situations.
There's one boss at the North and another one at the South end of this map. The order in which you kill them is entirely irrelevant.
Enjoy the freedom of choice, you won't get it often in Underworld! In any case, I suggest you take the North path first.
There are only two ambushes that way, and you're probably not a master Lycan yet (give it time, though).
Once you've killed him, turn around and go South. Check your surroundings to make sure you didn't skip any items or weapons.
There will be four ambushes before you reach the boss, this time, so be ready for a long succession of battles.
If you're low on health, quit fighting for just a second and consider your options: healing with Purge, kiling minor thugs to see if they drop health, or backtracking to see if there are any health items left.
When all the bosses are dead, the level will be over. Congratulations! Now you have to choose which upgrades to buy for your character.
Check the Vampires [XXXXX] or Lycans [XXXXX] section for recommendations on what to upgrade and what to ignore.
6.2 - MISSION 2 : INTO THE DEPTHS / INVADERS
Vampire Objectives:
-> Christov Must Survive
-> Kill the Lycan Leader
Lycan Objectives:
-> Protect Cutter
-> Kill the Vampire Leader
Vampires and Lycans start at the same place this time. What you have before you is a pretty long but completely linear level.
First of all, and even if it sounds selfish, forget about your protege.
He's right in the middle of the level, not particularly close to enemy groups, and won't engage in ANY fight unless you literally push him into one, so the chances of him dying and therefore ruining the mission are negligible.
Also, watch out for fuel cans, they can and will explode on impact.
Use them to your advantage, especially at the beginning of an ambush when all of the bad guys are together on the same side of the arena.
You are going to find five ambushes, one of them in the Underworld trademark square room. Don't let your guard down though, because there's a mini-boss just before you find your protege.
Kill him (the mini-boss), heal if necessary, and proceed with the remaining ambushes.
The actual boss will be waiting for you in another inconspicuous square room. To defeat him, just shoot him with everything you've got.
Killing the boss shouldn't be difficult; the real danger in this fight is staying alive. There are not many health items in this area.
That would normally mean you should run away and check whether you left any in previous areas, but that's not such a good idea in this particular level.
If you run away, your enemies might follow you into your protege's team, possibly leading to a dangerous situation.
To avoid this potential conflict, consider healing with powers or hunting thugs for item drops.
Once the boss is defeated, the level will be over.
6.3 - MISSION 3 : WINDHAM STREET WAR
Vampire Objectives:
-> Defeat Blaze
-> Collect 5 Briefcases
Lycan Objectives:
->Acquire the Briefcases
->Kill the Vampire Leader
This level has HEAPS of ambushes, so be ready for long and tiresome fights. The good news is that this level is entirely linear, so you have absolutely no chance of getting lost.
There are two objectives. One is to defeat the boss; he's the white, shiny X at the very top of the map. Pretty hard to miss, especially because it's not like there's anywhere else to go anyway.
The second is to collect the briefcases random enemies drop after dying.
The five briefcase-dropping enemies are in the 2nd, 4th, 5th, 6th and 8th ambushes, which means there are three 'empty' ambushes where you don't get anything. Shame.
The key to survive this level is to hold your ground or retreat, NEVER keep going forward.
All the ambushes are very close to one another (you may find two in the same street!), so you might drag one group of enemies into another if you're running around without thinking. Believe me, you don't want to do that:
you'll end up badly surrounded by twice as many enemies as you were fighting before.
If in trouble, always run south: the area will be free of enemies and you can use cars that didn't explode in previous fights or items you forgot to or couldn't pick up earlier.
Use the same philosophy for the boss: the farther away, the better.
Lycans can afford to jump into close-quarters combat if, and only if, the boss casts Bloodfrenzy and starts fighting bare-handed. Otherwise, keep running!
6.4 - MISSION 4 : STRONGHOLD / DEEP TROUBLE
Vampire Objectives:
-> Kill the Lycan Leader
Lycan Objectives:
-> Eliminate the leader
Well, aren't these objectives easy to memorize! Anyway. This level has a fairly difficult boss fight, but you'll find it significantly shorter than the previous one. It has less ambushes and it's much smaller.
As you will instantly notice if you check the map, the are two paths you can take as soon as you get out of the first ambush. The East path is closed, so you have to go West.
As soon as you turn around the corner, you'll find yourself in another ambush; one of the enemies will drop a key at some point. There's also a Health Item in the vicinity if you need healing.
Now turn around, because this key is not going to help you in this path. It will open the fence that kept you from taking the East path, so go there; the fence will open automatically.
Here you will face two ambushes, the latter of which will give you a new key. At the (dead) end of this path there are two Health Items, and I suggest you use them if you can.
If you don't need them, note they're there anyway in case you might need to go fetch them in the future.
Once you have the new key, backtrack once again towards the other path.
I know it's tiring, but there will be no more of that for the rest of this level, unless you voluntarily decide to go back and snatch any possible items or weapons you might have left behind.
Anyway, you'll only find one ambush on your way to the end of the level, in a very obvious square room that is screaming "Perfect ambush location!!".
Deal with the enemies and, once all of them are dead, proceed. Don't try to run past them or they'll follow you into the next battle, which is definitely against your interests.
Notice you're in a Subway Station, pretty much like the one in the movie. Once you've opened the fence at the very end of the level, you'll be in a Boss fight.
Vampire Strategy:
The Lycan boss comes with a lot of werewolves, some of which are HUGE.
It's a good idea to focus on the regular enemies before trying to kill the boss, to prevent finding yourself surrounded by angry werewolves.
Believe me when I say you don't want to be in that situation: these giant werewolves can inflict some serious damage with a single claw swipe.
They can toss your Death Dealer around as if she were a rubber ball.
Once the boss is alone, you can play hide and seek with him, up and down ledges or around the train; if you're low on health it'll be a safer method than confronting him directly, especially when he's in wolf form.
The bad part is that, if you keep running around the place while the boss chases you, your bodyguards won't be able to land a single shot on him and you won't be able to use them as diversion/human shield/bait, either.
Lycan Strategy:
Kill all the regular enemies... if you want. Whether the boss is alone or surrounded by enemies, you're going to be dodging a shower of bullets all the same.
Additionally, it might be a good idea to spare a couple of enemies. Have them waltz around the place until you're low on health, at which point you can kill them and see whether they drop items.
The Vampire boss' assault rifle hurts a lot, so it's in your best interest to keep moving and shooting him with all you got.
The above strategy of running around the train won't work very well with Lycans, because the boss will have a gun too.
For Lycans, the best part of the battle comes when the boss foolishly activates his Bloodfrenzy and lunges at you, trying to fight bare-handed.
Even if you haven't invested many points in Rage yet you will undoubtedly be better at close quarters combat than him, so whenever you see his fists glow red it's time to forget the hide-and-seek, transform into a wolf and beat him up.
If he goes back to shooting, turn into a human again and go back to running around the place and using your guns. The farther away from his rifle, the better.
If you absolutely need to replenish your health and you've ran out of Energy, run away and hope your bodyguards will keep the boss busy while you fetch any remaining items. Once he's dead, the level is over.
6.5 - MISSION 5 : OPEN WAR
Vampire Objectives:
-> Kill the Lycan Commander
-> Kill the six Lycan Leaders
-> Protect the Death Dealer Commander
Lycan Objectives:
-> Kill the Vampire Commander
-> Kill the Vampire Leaders
-> Protect the Lycan Commander
This is going to be quite a complex level; you shouldn't have a lot of problems staying alive, but you ARE going to do quite a lot of running.
First of all, look at the map. The green dots are your allies. The seven crosses are the six leaders plus the commander: that is, your targets.
The yellow circles that flash now and then simply indicate that something just happened in the point they sign, usually a side engaging in battle with another.
One interesting note about this level is that the character locations are identical for both Lycans and Vampires.
That means that the Vampire Stephen will be in the bottom right corner of the map, for instance, regardless of whether you are a Vampire or a Lycan.
If you're the former he'll be your ally, if you're the latter he'll be your target; but he'll be in the exact same place. The experience of beating this level will come in handy during your second playthrough!
It is important that you begin running as soon as you start the level, because the different teams I mentioned above will move away from their starting location and start fighting each other as soon as the level begins; therefore, it's better to start fighting while you still know where's everyone.
Do note that Lycans start at the Eastern end of the level, whereas Vampires start at the West.
The best way to beat this level is to follow one of your allies.
You have surely noticed that most of the friendly NPCs usually stay in one place, not really caring whether you're battling it out with hordes of angry, angry enemies mere inches from them. *However*, this isn't true for all the NPCs!
Every time I've played this game, I've found that there's one ally commander that actually DOES actively chase enemies and fight them, rather than stick to their default corner.
If you're a Lycan, this fierce and helpful NPC is the Gate Commander and he starts the level at the middle street.
If you're a Vampire, it's Julian and he starts at the South end of the middle street, where it meets the horizontal street.
Go and find either Julian or the Gate Commander, according to your race. Once you have found them, stick to them at all times.
If everything goes well, when all enemies are dead he should automatically start running towards the next group.
Now you just have to follow him around the level as you kill the bad guys, saving you the trouble of choosing your next target yourself.
In case there's some obscure glitch and Julian/GC don't chase enemies all around the place or you're on your own for whatever reason, you must bear in mind that there are two ambushes in this level.
You're already going to find several compulsory battles to kill all the enemy commanders, so I suggest you run away from these ambushes if you run into them.
Once the six bosses and the commander are dead, and obviously if your own commander survives (which shouldn't be too difficult, given how fond they are of staying out of trouble), the level will be over.
6.6 - MISSION 6 : DEADLY SURPRISE / DESPERATION
Vampire Objectives:
-> Survive for 15 minutes
-> Do not leave the mansion grounds
Lycan Objectives:
-> Survive for 15 minutes
-> Do not leave the plaza
Hello and welcome to one of the only two race-exclusive levels in Underworld! Vampires fight in the courtyard of their mansion, whereas Lycans battle it out in a plaza (or square).
That being said, it's not like there's any difference between both levels. Both are extremely small areas with a few items scattered around.
If you try to leave the courtyard or the plaza to find out what those little paths hide, you'll first get an onscreen warning and then fail the mission. So don't run away!
Overall, the bad thing of this level is that there are many, many enemies: you will be chased and attacked from all angles and directions, every single one of the fifteen minutes this level is going to last.
But huge amount of enemies is also the best part of the level: if you keep killing them, you should always be able to find Health or Energy items and weapons should also be relatively easy to find (pay special attention to enemies armed with Sniper Rifles).
Do note that there are several UV/Silver Nitrate Bullets scattered around the area (I think Lycans have more than Vampires, lucky them, but I could be wrong).
They won't respawn after you've taken them and as you know by now enemies don't drop them, so you should decide carefully when to use them.
I suggest you start using them when you're about five minutes into the battle; that's when the more powerful thugs and even mini-bosses begin coming in.
There's not much point in wasting your precious, precious bullets in weak enemies that can go down just as easily with regular attacks.
So there's very little I can tell you here. Keep running around the area, killing everything you see and, most importantly, collecting everything they drop.
Don't count on your bodyguards, since they'll die easily and can't be replaced manually. Reinforcements will arrive every now and then automatically.
More Underworld Tips:
If there's about one minute left and you're really low on health, you ran out of ammo, or just grew really bored of the level, you can always give up fighting and simply run around in circles, waiting till the timer hits zero and you've won the level.
Otherwise, fight till the last second!! You're going to need all the experience for the remaining levels.
6.7 - MISSION 7 : THE UNDERWORLD
Vampire Objectives: More Underworld Tips:
-> Kill the Lycan Commander
-> Protect the Death Dealer Commander
Lycan Objectives:
-> Kill the Vampire Commander
-> Protect the Leader holding the Plaza More Underworld Tips:
-> Protect the Lycan Commander
Doesn't look very good, huh? Well, the first thing to note is that Lycans start at the Eastern side of the map whereas Vampires start at the Western side.
Other than that, there's no difference between one level and the other. More Underworld Tips:
Lycans seem to have one more objective at the start of the level, "Protect the Leader holding the Plaza", but it doesn't appear in your objectives list.
And since we tend to ignore the "Protect:" objectives because Underworld characters aren't very courageous, so to speak, the aim of this level is once again to kill everyone.
Like Mission 5, this level has two ambushes apart from the compulsory battles. This map is smaller, though, so it's going to be more difficult to avoid them.
More Underworld Tips:
The good news, however, is the presence of UV/Silver Nitrate Bullets hidden in boxes.
I suggest you save them for the bosses, they're not easy and the level isn't exactly crowded with health items.
6.8 - MISSION 8 : FREAK OF NATURE / FATAL BLOW More Underworld Tips:
Vampire Objectives:
-> Destroy the Beast
Lycan Objectives:
-> Defeat the Elder
More Underworld Tips:
Last mission, woohoo! This time the map is not really complex, now is it?
This is the second and last level in Underworld that varies between one race and the other. It's still a small difference and simply a boss fight in essence, but I'll make seperate sections anyway.
Vampire Strategy:
More Underworld Tips:
This level just a long rectangle, divided in rooms by metallic fences. Three ambushes await you in just as many rooms; once you've dealt with the ambush, you'll get a key to proceed to the next section.
The first two contain Silver Nitrate bullets, too -use them well!
The last fight, with "The Beast", is going to be difficult. It's insanely strong. You WILL run out of everything, so expect having to backtrack to get more ammo. Pray that you didn't use it all on your way in. More Underworld Tips:
Also, don't even think of fighting him hand-to-hand; actually, keep him as far as your current gun's range allows.
The fact that The Beast can only fight hand-to-hand is ultimately good for you, because it will be easier to run away from him... and since we've already unlocked all the previous fences, now you can run around the entire level.
Don't get too confident, though! The hits of this beast hurt. A lot.
More Underworld Tips:
Lycan Strategy:
You fight in the Vampire mansion, which you got to visit as a Vampire in Mission 6.
Unlike the Vampires, you only have two ambushes before the boss fight, but in exchange you don't get UV Bullets. Oh well!
You will be fighting an enemy called "Vampire Elder". It's Viktor, a major character in the movie. More Underworld Tips:
It looks nothing like him but since there are only three Elders and one of them is dead (and a woman) and the other is hybernating, it can only be Viktor.
He is the only Vampire that can inflict significant damage bare-handed, so think twice before engaging in hand-to-hand combat with him. Running away in this tiny space isn't a very good idea either, since he can easily outrun you with Blinding Speed.
I'm afraid you're gonna have to run around the fountain and shoot non-stop. I'd rather not Transform unless you really ran out of ammo.
More Underworld Tips:
Once you've killed your boss, the level will be over.
You've now finished the whole game :D Congratulations! You've also unlocked the Hybrid (Michael, in the movie), who is insanely powerful.
He can only fight hand-to-hand (no guns) and has Vampire powers, but you can play both Vampire AND Lycan levels with him. More Underworld Tips:
7) WEAPONS
The weapons below are sorted according to their usefulness, not their power or speed. The top being the most useful and the bottom being the least useful. More Underworld Tips:
As you can see later , the Top 5 weapons all use bullets, and all the weapons which use bullets are at the top.
This is because they ARE the most effective weapons in the game, but also because (with the exception of the Shotgun and the Sniper Rifle) they can be used to shoot Silver Nitrate or UV bullets.
More Underworld Tips:
I'll procceed to describe each weapon individually now.
7.1 - Assault Rifle
This rifle is undoubtedly the best weapon you're going to find in the underworld of Budapest.
It's completely automatic, you don't need to reload it very often, and it does a lot of damage to everything. More Underworld Tips:
Plus it's actually not hard to find, so don't hesitate in using this against everything that moves. You can even afford using it to destroy wooden boxes, since it is possible to shoot just one bullet if you tap the R1 button just once.
7.2 - Sniper Rifle
In case you're wondering, no you can't aim in first person. More Underworld Tips:
But this rifle is insanely powerful just the same. Regular thugs will go down in just one or two shots, while stronger enemies will be pushed back even if they can survive five or six shots.
You also have a pretty good chance of popping the enemy's head off, if you're into those things. Unfortunately, it's very VERY hard to find and never comes with much ammo, so don't shoot with it unless you know for sure you're going to hit the enemy.
But by all means, enjoy it while you can -you don't know when's the next time you might run across one.
More Underworld Tips:
7.3 - Shotgun
The Underworld shotgun is less powerful than that of your typical shooting game, but in exchange it's much, much quicker.
The range doesn't suck as much as you'd initially assume, so it's all around a great weapon to blast your enemies to pieces. More Underworld Tips:
Do watch out for the ammo -it runs out quickly and there's never a whole lot around.
7.4 - Dual Sub-machine guns
These are the weapons you should have permanently equipped, if you have them. They fire bursts of five or six rounds which do decent damage. More Underworld Tips:
It would be wise to use these against regular enemies as long as you can, reserving stronger weapons for bosses or particularly tough enemies.
They're especially useful on the first levels, before the really tough enemies begin stalking you everywhere.
7.5 - Dual Handguns More Underworld Tips:
You start every level with these weapons. The fact that they're not automatic doesn't mean they're slow, as you can shoot pretty quickly if your have agile fingers.
The damage the handguns deal isn't spectacular, especially in advanced levels, but they're not at all the weakest weapons of the game either.
7.6 - Laser
More Underworld Tips:
Quite a scarce weapon, this one. It seems to shoot a white energy beam which I arbitrarily decided to call "Laser".
It's not very powerful, but it doesn't run out of ammo very quickly and, best of all, it inflicts continuous damage.
Another advantage is that you can always tell where you're shooting, since the huge energy beam is quite hard to miss.
Overall it's the best weapon you can get when you've ran out of bullet-using weapons.
More Underworld Tips:
7.7 - Electric Gun
This weapon shoots pure electricity, which will instantly paralyze the target as long as they're receiving said electricity. More Underworld Tips:
The good thing about this is that the electric rays can jump from one enemy to another if they're close enough, so you can end up electrocuting up to about five enemies at the same time.
It takes AGES to kill even the weakest enemies only with this weapon but none of the enemies will move a muscle meanwhile, so A) your bodyguards will be happy to shoot at them unhindered, and B) the enemies won't be attacking you either. More Underworld Tips:
Be aware, though, that you need to reload from time to time. When this happens, the rays will stop and all enemies will be free again...
7.8 - Flamethrower
Oddly enough, there seem to be plenty of flamethrowers scattered all around Budapest. There's one in every level and you really have to be desperate to run out of ammo with this one. More Underworld Tips:
In most games the flamethrowers are the ultimate ass kicking, mass murdering weapons, but not in Underworld. It's one of the "Desperation Weapons" which you shouldn't use unless you really have nothing else to shoot or throw at the enemy.
The flamethrower's range is awfully short and the damage is pretty much non-existant: in order to hurt anyone with it, you need to place your target in the WIDE part of the flames for a few seconds.
If you are too close to your enemy they won't be hurt, a problem common for most weapons. More Underworld Tips:
You are going to use this weapon often after running out of bullets, so learn how to use it well: don't wave it around aimlessly, instead focus on constantly burning one enemy at a time.
It's really the only way to use this weapon. It works better against Lycans than against Vampires, by the way; maybe because fur burns more quickly.
Also note that you can't break boxes with this weapon: they catch fire, but don't break.
7.9 - Multi-grenade Launcher
More Underworld Tips:
Okay, so I don't know how to call this thing. It looks like a bazooka that shoots six little bombs in a wide angle.
The grenades don't hurt much at all unless all of them hit the enemy (which you're not likely to see), but there's a good part -the little explosions of these bombs don't hurt you no matter how close you're standing, getting this weapon right above the rocket and grenade launchers in terms of usefulness.
But due to the low damage anyway, use it as a last resort and only until you find a better weapon.
More Underworld Tips:
7.10 & 7.11 - Grenade & Rocket Launchers
Never EVER use these weapons. EVER. They're both fairly common when compared to the Laser or the Sniper Rifle, but they're awful.
The damage is great and the explosion does a good job at tossing the enemies in random directions, but the explosion will hurt YOU as well 9 out of every 10 times.
Especially with grenades, which have a funny tendency to bounce off walls and leap straight at you. More Underworld Tips:
Just have a look at the CPU enemies -even *they* get hurt when they're using a launcher. So, unless you have literally no other weapons, don't even consider using this or your bodyguards and you will end up being immortal barbeque.
7.12 - Fists
The game lists them as a weapon, so I will too. You can perform a four-hit combo which is weak and has a ridiculously short range but, obviously, it needs no ammo of any kind. More Underworld Tips:
The Hybrid and Werewolves are forced to use only their fists and they work well with them, but Vampires and Werewolves-while-in-human- form are hopeless at hand-to-hand combat.
Not only it's slow and inoffensive, but it's also quite hard to actually hit the enemy.
By the time you walk up to them and start your combo your target will probably be at the other side of the screen already. And no, bloodfrenzy doesn't help much, in the case of Vampires.
7.13 - Silver Stars
They're those shiny stars Selene throws against a Lycan at the very beginning of the movie. More Underworld Tips:
In that scene four stars are enough to stop a Lycan right in its tracks, but that's far from the truth in this game. They're slow, they're virtually harmless and, as if that wasn't enough, have a laughably low chance of hitting ANYTHING, even though they bounce off nearby walls.
It's better to use Bloodfrenzy/Rage and fight with your own fists rather than wasting your time with these.
Oh and, this has nothing to do with the actual gameplay, but the animation of your Death Dealers throwing stars makes them look like 5-year- old girls cheerfully throwing little flowers around.
8) ITEMS
More Underworld Tips:
There are several items you will find in the streets of Budapest. You can find them just lying around on the ground or hidden inside wooden boxes of different shapes and sizes. You can also get them from fallen enemies.
8.1 - Health
It looks like a Red Cross, except it's light blue. It restores a bit of your health, as you probably deduced.
This item is permanent if found inside a box, temporary if an enemy dropped it (i.e., it will vanish shortly if you don't pick it up).
More Underworld Tips:
8.2 - Energy
This items restores your Energy bar. If you're anything like me, at first you'll have trouble distinguishing Energy items from Health items, especially from afar.
The most noticeable difference between them is ultimately the colour -energy bars are deep blue instead of light blue and shiny. This item is permanent if found inside a box, temporary if an enemy dropped it.
8.3 - Full Health, Full Energy
More Underworld Tips:
These items, which replenish the entirety of your Life or Energy bar, are very easy to spot -they're the regular Health or Energy items surrounded by a golden ring, making them hard to miss even in the most crowded fights.
Sometimes really tough enemies in certain levels will drop one of these presents. They never ever disappear (even the ones dropped by enemies will stay there forever).
8.4 - Reinforcements
More Underworld Tips:
You won't be seeing this very often: it looks like a big, shiny red coin, really hard to miss. A handful of enemies drop them in one or two levels.
This will give you more reinforcement units, so you can ask for more help if your bodyguards die.
8.5 - Silver Nitrate / UV Bullets
More Underworld Tips:
These are almost as scarce as Reinforcements but much, MUCH more useful. They're special bullets that vastly increase the damage made by guns, and look like a white or blue bullet magazine.
Logically, these bullets can only be used with guns that use bullets, that is: Handguns, Submachineguns and the Assault Rifle.
8.6 - Weapons More Underworld Tips:
Like Health and Energy items, weapons can be obtained BOTH from crates and from enemies, with the additional advantage of being permanent: even the weapons dropped by enemies stay there forever.
If you have max ammo for a certain weapon, you obviously won't be able to pick up more.
9) CHARACTERS
More Underworld Tips:
Whether you play as a Vampire or a Lycan, you have four characters to choose from. From that total of eight different characters, three (Selene, Erika and Raze) appear in the movie.
Other than that, there is little to no difference between characters: you may go as far as calling them "skins". More Underworld Tips:
Each character starts with three skill points, but each one set them differently.
The following is a list of the available characters and in which skills they have points by default.
It is worth noting that Selene and Raze are the most balanced characters, and that the Lycans Bruce and Zak are, for some obscure reason, clones of each other.
More Underworld Tips:
9.1 - Vampire characters
9.1.1 - Selene:
Bloodfrenzy 1
Blinding Speed 1
Control Blood 1
More Underworld Tips:
9.1.2 - Dawn:
Bloodfrenzy 2
Control Blood 1
9.1.3 - Julia: Bloodfrenzy 1 Control Blood 2
More Underworld Tips:
9.1.4 - Erika:
Blinding Speed 2
Control Blood 1
9.2 - Lycan characters
9.2.1 - Raze:
More Underworld Tips:
Transform 1
Rage 1
Purge 1
9.2.2 - Kurt:
Transform 1
Purge 2
More Underworld Tips:
9.2.3 - Zak:
Transform 2
Purge 1
9.2.4 - Bruce:
Transform 2
Purge 1 [Same as Zak]
More Underworld Tips:
10) EXTRAS
There are a few extras from the movie in the Main Menu, namely two videos and several pictures.
This list is permanent and available from the beginning: you don't get anything else for completing the game.
More Underworld Tips:
10.1 - Videos:
Short Trailer
Long Trailer
10.2 - Stills:
Creature Shop 1
Creature Shop 2
Creature Shop 3
Creature Shop 4
More Underworld Tips:
Creature Shop 5
Crypt 1
Crypt 2
Erika
Hybrid
Lucian 1
Lucian 2
More Underworld Tips:
On the set 1
On the set 2
On the set 3
Selene 1
Selene 2
Selene 3
More Underworld Tips:
Selene 4
Selene 5
Selene 6
Selene 7
Subway
Underworld More Underworld Tips:
Werewolf 1
Werewolf 2
Whip Fight
Hybrid Toy
Lucian Toy
Selene Toy
Viktor Toy
More Underworld Tips:
Werewolf Toy
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View the original article here

A nice game which never miss!

by George Wong
(China)

The game image quality and gaming control is enjoying very much improved compare to all the resident evil series.

You are not only fighting zombies speed, but also the struggle of the people and all types of zombie mutant, that you are running this movement in turtle! Much more exciting!

You have the weakness to defeat the boss, the boss in each fight address:)

There are also some scenarios that require that specific button press on your joypad to overcome the gaming scene, will be very exciting!

Miss not always this game or you will regret for the rest of your life:

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Saturday, September 3, 2011

Is there value that buy PlayStation 3 set?

by Jessy
(China)

I've heard that 3 games of very nice image quality have PlayStation and value to play... Value for its current selling price is the PlayStation 3?

There all current PlayStation 3 owners can share with me some comments?

Thank you very much

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Friday, September 2, 2011

I don't think that PSP is worth to buy...

by Shane Tan
(North Carolina)

The PSP price is good, not cheap... And the game screen is so small... Ya course dudes, some say that it is easy to wear and able to play the games, where you want to play...

But still, I personally think that the price still too high to take a set of hand game console is...

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X-men mutant Academy

"Looking for Insider Cheat Codes Of X-Men Mutant Academy?"

1) INTRODUCTION

X-Men Mutant Academy 1.1 - BIRTH OF THE X-MEN

"Mutations have occurred since life began.

It wasinevitable that eventually mutations would result inbeings with extraordinary abilities.

These are themutants: men and women whose actual genetic structureendows them with super-human powers.

A mutant namedCharles Xavier has formed a team of these mutants calledthe X-Men.

X-Men Mutant Academy Professor Charles Xavier has made it his life's work totrain the X-Men to use their powers for good.

But still,some of those born with an ordinary genome hate and fearthe X-Men. These unusual warriors learn to protect thosethat reject them.

In the X-Men: Mutant Academy, each and every mutant mustprove his or her worth in battle against the others. Theymust learn to harness their rage and utilize theirindividual special powers."

1.2 - MOVE KEY

( Abbr - Fullname - Button Used )

u - UP - Up on the D-Pad

d - DOWN - Down on the D-Pad

f - FORWARD - Forward; the direction toward the opponent

b - BACK - Back; the direction away from the opponent

P1 - PUNCH 1 - Square Button

P2 - PUNCH 2 - Triangle Button

P3 - PUNCH 3 - R1 Shoulder Button (or Square+Triangle)

P - ANY PUNCH - Any of the above

K1 - KICK 1 - X Button

K2 - KICK 2 - O Button

K3 - KICK 3 - R2 Shoulder Button (or X+O)

K - ANY KICK - Any of the above

CTR - COUNTER - L1 Shoulder Button

THR - THROW - L2 Shoulder Button

[S] - Super Move

[M] - Stringed Super Move

[X] - X-Treme Super Move

1.3 - THE BASICS

Punch Overhead Attack : f+P2

Kick Overhead Attack : f+K2

Weak Jump Punch Attack : (in air) P1

Med Jump Punch Attack : (in air) P2

Hard Jump Punch Attack : (in air) P3

Weak Jump Kick Attack : (in air) K1

Med Jump Kick Attack : (in air) K2

Hard Jump Kick Attack : (in air) K3

Weak Crouch Punch Attack : d+P1

Med Crouch Punch Attack : d+P2

Hard Crouch Punch Attack : d+P3

Weak Crouch Kick Attack : d+K1

Med Crouch Kick Attack : d+K2

Hard Crouch Kick Attack : d+K3

Blocking : Hold b

Low Blocking : Hold db

Guard Cancel : Tap b

Backstep : b,b

Dash : f,f

Run : f,Hold f

Throw : THR or P1+K1

Throw 2 : f+THR or f+P1+K1

Reverse Throw : b+THR or b+P1+K1

Taunt : P2+K1

Counter : CTR or P2+K2

The three yellow bars under your character's health meter arethe Counter meters. Each time you counter a move will depleteone of the three bars, so you can only counter up to 3 timesper match.

1.4 - CHOOSING COSTUMES

SQUARE Button : Movie Costume

X Button : Comic Costume

O Button : 3rd Costume (HIDDEN)

Each character in X-Men: Mutant Academy has an alternate outfit thatis their appearance from the Summer 2000 X-Men motion picture.Despite the fact that Gambit and Beast are not in the movie, theyhave been given custom-designed "movie-style costumes" usedexclusively in this game.

To choose a character's Movie outfit,simply choose the character using the SQUARE button at the SelectScreen. A third outfit, once they are unlocked (see the Codes andSecrets section), can be chosen using the O button.

1.5 - SUPER MOVES

1.5.1 - Basics of the Super Move System

Each character in the game has unique Super Moves that correspondto each of the three bars (as illustrated above) at the bottom of thescreen. Whenever you connect with any attack, as long as it's notblocked, power will be added to one of the three bars.

From left to right (for Player 1) or right to left (for Player 2),the bars represent the following:

Super Move

Denoted with "[S]" in this FAQ's move lists. The Super Move canbe done as soon as the outer bar is full (an "S" will appear onthe bar to indicate this.)

Stringed Super Move

Denoted with "[M]" in this FAQ's move lists. The Stringed SuperMove can be done as soon as the middle bar is full (an arrowwill appear on the bar to indicate this.)

NOTE: Once you have performed the motion for a Stringed SuperMove, yellow arrows will appear above your bars during thebrief pause.

Press the directional pad in the directions asindicated by these arrows to multiply the strength of yourStringed Super Move.

X-Treme Super Move

Denoted with "[X]" in this FAQ's move lists. The X-Treme SuperMoves, unlike the other two, cannot be done yet when the innerbar is initially filled.

Instead, two small arrows (or half-X's)will appear at the outer edges of the bar, and you must tap theX button rapidly in order to bring them together and form an "X"at the center. Once this is done, you're allowed a limitedperiod of time in which you can perform your X-Treme Super Move.

If you use any of the above, it will deplete the corresponding barwhether it hits the opponent or not. So use them wisely.

1.5.2 - Advanced Technique: Managing Your Super Meters

At any time during a fight, you can actually transfer the power fromone bar to another. For this purpose, the Square, Triangle, and Obuttons will each represent one of the three bars:

SQUARE Button:

The bar farthest to your left. If you're Player 1,this would be your Super Move bar. Or if you'rePlayer 2, this would be the X-Treme Super Move bar.

TRIANGLE Button:

The bar at the middle. This is the Stringed SuperMove bar whether you're Player 1 or 2 since it'salways in the middle.

O Button:

The bar farthest to your right. This would bePlayer 1's X-Treme Super Move bar or Player 2'sSuper Move bar.

To perform the transfer, hold either Left or Right on the directionalpad, then press and hold the button corresponding to the bar you wantto transfer FROM, followed by the button corresponding to the bar youwant to transfer TO.

For example, if you're Player 1, and would like to transfer the powerfrom your Stringed Super (middle) meter to your X-Treme Super meter(farthest to your right), simply hold Left/Right, then press and holdthe TRIANGLE button followed by the O button.

This technique isactually much simpler than it may seem, and it really comes in handyto gain more victories.

2) DEFAULT CHARACTERS

2.1 - CYCLOPS

Real Name : Scott Summers

Height : 6'3"

Weight : 195 lbs.

Speed : Medium

Strength : High

Range : Very High

Healing : Low

Profile blurb: "Strict and precise field commander, he can bring hisoptic blasts to bear with deadly effect."

Special Moves

Optic Blast : d,df,f+P

Upper Blast : d,db,b+P1

Super Upper Blast : d,db,b+P2

Hyper Upper Blast : d,db,b+P3

Lunge Kick : d,db,b+K1

Super Lunge Kick : d,db,b+K2

Hyper Lunge Kick : d,db,b+K3

Super Moves

Super Power Lunge Kick : [S] d,df,f+K3

Hyper Rush : [M] b,f+P3

Concussion Blast : [X] d,df,f+P3+K3

2.2 - WOLVERINE

Real Name : Logan

Height : 5'3"

Weight : 200 lbs. without Adamantium Skeleton , 300 lbs. with Adamantium Skeleton

Speed : High

Strength : Very High

Range : Very Low

Healing : Very High

Profile blurb: "The most ferocious of the X-Men. He is the best thereis at what he does: hurt his opponents."

Special Moves

Fury Claw : d,df,f+P

Setup Jump : d,db,b+K...

Samurai Dive : Setup Jump (above), P1/P2/P3/K1/K2

Sudden Dip : Setup Jump (above), K3

Super Moves

Samurai Slice : [S] d,df,f+K3

Special Delivery : [M] d,db,b+P3

Weapon X (recharge) : [X] K2,K1,d,P2

2.3 - GAMBIT

Real Name : Remy LeBeau

Height : 6'1"

Weight : 175 lbs.

Speed : Very High

Strength : Low

Range : High

Healing : Very Low

Profile blurb: "This Cajun can charge and throw objects. In a fighthe holds all the right cards."

Special Moves

Falling Card : d,db,b+P1

Falling Card 2 : d,db,b+P2

Falling Card 3 : d,db,b+P3

Card Toss : Hold b 2secs,f+P1

Card Toss 2 : Hold b 2secs,f+P2

Card Toss 3 : Hold b 2secs,f+P3

Staff Charge Upper : Hold b 2secs,f+K1

Staff Charge Upper 2 : Hold b 2secs,f+K2

Staff Charge Upper 3 : Hold b 2secs,f+K3

More X-Men Mutant Academy Tips:

Super Moves

Charged Staff : [S] Hold d 2secs,b+K1+P1

Card Trick : [M] d,db,b+K3

52 Card Pickup : [X] db,f+P3+K3

2.4 - STORM

Real Name : Ororo Munroe

Height : 5'11"

Weight : 127 lbs.

Speed : Low

Strength : Medium

More X-Men Mutant Academy Tips:

Range : Very High

Healing : Low

Profile blurb: "At the heart of a raging maelstrom, she remains calmand in control."

Special Moves

Ball Lightning : d,db,b+P1...hold P1 and use D-Pad to steer

Ball Lightning 2 : d,db,b+P2...hold P2 and D-Pad to steer

Ball Lightning 3 : d,db,b+P3

Electric Drill : Hold b 2secs,f+P1

More X-Men Mutant Academy Tips:

Electric Drill 2 : Hold b 2secs,f+P2

Electric Drill 3 : Hold b 2secs,f+P3

Lightning Uproar : Hold b 2secs,f+K1

Lightning Uproar 2 : Hold b 2secs,f+K2

Lightning Uproar 3 : Hold b 2secs,f+K3

Super Moves

Static Force : [S] K2,u,P2

Hyper Electric Drill : [M] Hold b 2secs,f,b+P3

EMF : [X] Hold b 2secs,f,b+K3

More X-Men Mutant Academy Tips:

2.5 - BEAST

Real Name : Henry P. McCoy

Height : 5'11"

Weight : 355 lbs.

Speed : High

Strength : Very High

Range : High

Healing : Low

Profile blurb: "Uses his ape-like strength and agility, plus genius-level intellect to confront and confound foes."

More X-Men Mutant Academy Tips:

Special Moves

Handspring Kick : d,db,b+P1

Handspring Kick 2 : d,db,b+P2

Beast Roll : d,db,b+P3

Beast Slide : d,db,b+K1

Beast Slide 2 : d,db,b+K2

Beast Slide 3 : d,db,b+K3

Super Moves

Handplant Hell : [S] d,df,f+K3

More X-Men Mutant Academy Tips:

Seismic Smackdown : [M] d,df,f+P3

Flat Out : [X] b,db,d,df,f+K2

2.6 - PHOENIX

Real Name : Jean Grey-Summers

Height : 5'6"

Weight : 110 lbs.

Speed : Low

Strength : Very Low

Range : Very High

Healing : Low

Profile blurb : "One of the most powerful X-Men. Along with telepathy,Jean wields the cosmic might of the Phoenix."

Special Moves

Inferno Kick : d,df,f+K

More X-Men Mutant Academy Tips:

Flying Phoenix : (in air) d,df,f,P1

Flying Phoenix 2 : (in air) d,df,f,P2

Flying Phoenix 3 : (in air) d,df,f,P3

Air Strike : (in air) d,df,f,K1

Air Strike 2 : (in air) d,df,f,K2

Air Strike 3 : (in air) d,df,f,K3

Super Moves

Hyper Air Strike : [S] (in air) d,db,b+K3

Control Bubble : [S] d,db,b+P3

Double Phoenix : [M] d,df,f+P3

More X-Men Mutant Academy Tips:

Phoenix Force : [X] P2,P1,d,K2

3) BOSS CHARACTERS

3.1 - TOAD

Real Name : Mortimer Toynbee

Height : 5'8"

Weight : 260 lbs.

Speed : Medium

Strength : HighMore X-Men Mutant Academy Tips:

Range : High

Healing : Low

Profile blurb : "An outcast misfit. He possesses a frog-like physiqueand leg strength to match."

Special Moves

Toad Spit : d,df,f+P

Toad Trick : d,db,b+K...

Toad Slide : Toad Trick (above), then K1

Toad Slide 2 : Toad Trick (above), then K2

More X-Men Mutant Academy Tips:

Toad Slide 3 : Toad Trick (above), then K3

Toad Dive : Toad Trick (above), then P

Flytrap Weak : d,df,f+K1

Flytrap Med : d,df,f+K2

Flytrap Strong : d,df,f+K3

Super Moves

Kicking Toad : [S] b,f+P3

Frog Legs : [M] d,db,b+P3

Flying Toad : [X] b,f+K3

More X-Men Mutant Academy Tips:

3.2 - MYSTIQUE

Real Name : Raven Darkholme

Height : 5'10"

Weight : 120 lbs.

Speed : Medium

Strength : Low

Range : High

Healing : Very Low

Profile blurb : "Drop dead gorgeous, this evil mutant assassin wieldshigh-tech weaponry with deadly accuracy."

More X-Men Mutant Academy Tips:

Special Moves

Cheap Shot : d,db,b+K1

Cheap Shot 2 : d,db,b+K2

Cheap Shot 3 : d,db,b+K3

Head Shot : d,df,f+P1

Pop Shot : d,df,f+P2

Leg Sweeper : d,df,f+P3

More X-Men Mutant Academy Tips:

Super Moves

Deck Special : [S] d,db,b+P1+K1

Sum Total : [M] d,db,b+P3

Mystique's Surprise : [X] d,df,f+K3

3.3 - SABRETOOTH

Real Name : Victor Creed

Height : 6'6"

Weight : 275 lbs.

More X-Men Mutant Academy Tips:

Speed : Medium

Strength : Very High

Range : Very Low

Healing : Very High

Profile blurb : "A psychotic hunter and fighter. He is the mortalenemy of Wolverine."

Special Moves

More X-Men Mutant Academy Tips:

Dusty Claw : b,f+K

More X-Men Mutant Academy Tips:More X-Men Mutant Academy Tips:

Dive Claw : Hold b 2secs,f+P1

Dive Claw 2 : Hold b 2secs,f+P2

Dive Claw 3 : Hold b 2secs,f+P3

Ill Treatment : d,db,b+K2

Super Moves

Weapon X (recharge) : [S] P1,K2,b,P1

Ground Pound : [M] d,db,b+P3

Rampant Strength : [X] P1,K2,b,P2

More X-Men Mutant Academy Tips:

3.4 - MAGNETO

Real Name : Erik Magnus Lehnsherr

Height : 6'2"

Weight : 190 lbs.

Speed : Very Low

Strength : Very High

Range : High

Healing : Low

More X-Men Mutant Academy Tips:

Profile blurb: "Leader of evil mutants and master of magnetism.Mutant world domination is his goal."

Special Moves

Lure : d,df,f+K

Power Gush : d,df,f+P1

Power Gush 2 : d,df,f+P2

Power Gush 3 : d,df,f+P3

Magnetic Lift : b,f+P1

Magnetic Lift 2 : b,f+P2

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Magnetic Lift 3 : b,f+P3

Super Moves

Hyper Magnetic Lift : [S] b,f+K3

Hyper Power Gush : [M] d,db,b+P3

Hyper Lure : [X] d,db,b+K3

4) CODES AND SECRETS

4.1 - UNLOCKING CEREBRO FEATURES

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Cerebro Mode allows you to view many hidden features such asfull-motion video sequences and special photos. By default, the onlyfeature unlocked is the Movie Trailer (the 2nd Theatrical trailer forthe Summer 2000 X-Men film).

In Cerebro Mode, use Up/Down on the D-Pad to scroll through thefeatures, and Left/Right to change categories. Press the X button toview a feature, or Triangle to exit back to the main menu.

4.1.1 - CATEGORY 1: ARCADE

-> Intro FMV

To unlock the Intro Full-Motion Video (FMV) sequence for eachcharacter, complete Arcade mode using him/her.

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-> Intro FMV - Story Style

To unlock the "Story Style" Full-Motion Video (FMV) sequence,win Arcade with every character.

-> Historical Comic Pix

To unlock the Historical Comic Pictures, complete Arcade modewith all of the characters using their normal comic costumes.

-> Behind the Scenes Pix

To unlock the Behind the Scenes Pictures, complete Arcade modewith all of the characters using their alternate (movie)costumes.

4.1.2 - CATEGORY 2: SURVIVAL LEVEL 1

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-> Individual Character Comic Pix

To unlock the individual character Comic Pictures, go throughten rounds with a character in Survival mode, wearing his/hernormal comic costume.

4.1.3 - CATEGORY 3: SURVIVAL LEVEL 2

-> Individual Character Movie Pix

To unlock the individual character Movie Pictures, go throughtwenty rounds with a character in Survival mode, wearinghis/her alternate (movie) costume.

-> Movie Pix

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To unlock the Movie Pictures (not specific to each of the moviecharacters), go through twenty rounds in Survival mode usingGambit.

4.1.4 - CATEGORY 4: ACADEMY LEVEL 1

-> Outro FMV

To unlock the Outro Full-Motion Video (FMV) sequence for eachcharacter, graduate the Academy Training mode using him/her.

4.1.5 - CATEGORY 5: ACADEMY LEVEL 2

-> 3rd Costumes

To unlock the third costume for each character, graduate theAcademy Training mode with straight A's using him/her. The 3rdcostume will be accessible by selecting the character with theO button.

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4.2 - UNLOCKING THE BOSS CHARACTERS

All ten characters, including the four bosses, are available bydefault in the two-player Versus mode. However, the four bosses(Toad, Mystique, Sabretooth, and Magneto) must be unlocked inorder to make them selectable in the Arcade, Academy, and Survivalmodes.

( Boss Name -> How to Unlock )

TOAD -> Complete Arcade mode with any character for the first time.

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MYSTIQUE -> Complete Arcade mode with any character for the second time.

SABRETOOTH -> Complete Arcade mode with any character for the third time.

MAGNETO -> Complete Arcade mode with any character for the fourth time.

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Thursday, September 1, 2011

World Championship Poker

"Looking for Insider Cheat Codes Of World Championship Poker?"

1) INTRODUCTION / PURPOSE

World Championship Poker This guide is a basic FAQ/Walkthrough for the game World Championship Poker,

intended to aid the player in opening the games many tournaments, and achievingthe highest return for the player in playing the various forms of pokeravailable in the game.

Enclosed is a description of the various types of games and tournamentsavailable, with their types, buy-ins, payout structure, and some basicstrategies.

World Championship Poker 2) GENERAL NOTICES ABOUT THE GUIDE

Note 1:

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I based this guide on the North American Playstation 2 version of the game, sosome particular strategies given here may not necessarily work for otherversions.

Note 2:

A basic strategy for how to play hands is enclosed, however, it should be notedthat this is mainly designed to defeat the computer opponents in the game.Therefore, the strategies may not work as well on human opponents (such as inonline play, other poker games, or in real life).

This strategy is not minealone, rather it is an amalgamation of strategies from several source books(given in the Acknowledgement section) modified to this particular game.Players interested in these strategies are highly encouraged to get the booksstated there.

Note 3:

There is also some information (such as pot odds) that requires a basicunderstanding in algebra and statistics. I have tried to keep such mathematicalterminology to a minimum, however, it is necessary to truly understand thematerial.

3) VOCABULARY

Poker Terms:

Board: The community cards placed face up on the table that all players can use.

Quads: 4 of a kind

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Trips: 3 of a kind

Boat/Full Boat: Full house

Kicker(s): The highest unpaired card(s). Often used to break ties, they are quite important in a lot of hands.

Wheel: Lowest possible straight (5,4,3,2,A, with the ace low).

Card Symbolism: Ranks:

A : Ace

K : King

Q : Queen

J : Jack

T : Ten (10)

Mathematical Terms:

Operational Symbols:

+ : Addition

- : Subtraction

* : Multiplication

/ : Division

^ : Exponents

Numerical shortcuts:

K : (kilo-) Thousand

M : (mega-) Million

4) BASIC INFORMATION

Here is some basic information on poker.

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4.1 - Rank of Hands

In descending order, the ranks of hands are as follows:

Royal Flush : A,K,Q,J,T all of the same suit.

Straight Flush : 5 cards in order, all of the same suit.

4 of a Kind (Quads) : 4 cards of the same rank.

Full House (Full Boat): 3 cards of one rank, and 2 of another rank.

Flush : 5 cards of the same suit.

Straight : 5 cards in order.

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3 of a Kind (Trips) : 3 cards of the same rank.

Two Pair : 2 cards of one rank, and 2 of another rank.

Pair : 2 cards of the same rank.

High Card : None of the above hands

Ties are broken by the rank of the cards used in the hand, with A counting ashighest (except in a straight or straight flush, where A can count as highestor lowest, so 5,4,3,2,A is a straight (the "wheel")). For a full house, the 3of a kind is compared first, then the pair.

For identical quads, trips, twopair, and pairs, extra cards (kickers) are then compared, up to the maximum offive cards per hand. If all five cards in a hand are identical in rank, thehands are considered tied, so...

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9,9,9,K,Q,8,2 is tied with 9,9,9,K,Q,7,4 (last 2 cards not counted)

These ranks are used for all varieties of poker in the game.

4.2 - Types of Games

World Championship Poker contains several varieties of poker, listed below.

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Texas Hold'Em: The most popular form in the tournaments, it involves eachplayer receiving two hole cards, with five community cards distributed 3-1-1(flop, turn, and river).

Small and big blinds are posted, and players may bet 4times, before the flop, and after the flop, turn, and river. Players can thenuse any or all of their hole cards with the community cards (the "board") tomake the best hand.

Tahoe: A variation of Texas Hold'Em with 3 hole cards to each player and thesame 3-1-1 board. Betting is as in Hold'Em, but players may only use up to 2 oftheir hole cards with the board.

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Super Hold'Em: Another variation with 3 hole cards to each player, but theplayer can use all 3 hole cards with the board.

Pineapple: Another variation with 3 hole cards, but the players are forced todiscard one card after the first round of betting, but before the flop. Actionthen proceeds as in Texas Hold'Em.

Crazy Pineapple: As in Pineapple, but the discarding takes place after thesecond round of betting (between the flop and turn).

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Double Flop Hold'Em: As in Texas Hold'Em, with 2 hole cards, however, twoboards (complete with flop, turn, and river) are dealt. The players cards arecompared on each board separately, and the winner on each board wins half thepot.

Omaha: 4 hole cards are dealt, with the board distributed 3-1-1 as in Hold'Em.Players are required to use exactly 2 of their hole cards with the board tomake their best hand.

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Shanghai: 3 hole cards are dealt as in Tahoe, but the board distribution ischanged to 2-2-1. Again, as in Tahoe, players can only use up to 2 hole cardswith the board.

Billabong: Players are dealt 4 hole cards, with the last face up on the table.Board is distributed 3-1-1 as in Hold'Em. Players must use either 3 or all 4hole cards to make their hand.

7 Card Stud: Players are dealt 3 cards to begin, 2 face down and 1 face up.After the first round of betting, players are dealt one card each round untilthey have seven cards, with all cards but the last face up. A round of bettingoccurs after each round of cards is dealt.

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Draw Poker: Players are dealt 5 cards. After a round of betting, players candiscard up to 4 cards (4 card discards are only allowed if the kept card is anAce), or can choose not to discard. A second round of betting then ensues, andthen the hands are compared.

Triple Draw (2-7): As in draw poker, but 3 separate drawings are allowed, whichcan be from none to all 5 cards for each drawing. The object here is to get thelowest possible hand (2-7, no flush).

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4.3 - Limits

Each of the varieties of poker can be played with the following betting limits.

Limit: Betting is limited to specific amounts, depending on whether it is pre-flop, on the flop, turn, or river. These limits are listed as #/#, where thefirst number is usually half of the second (i.e. 5/10, 25/50, etc.). The firstis the size of bets on pre-flop and flop, and the second for turn and river.

(Note: In most games, raises are capped at 4 bets). The blinds are usually setby these limits, with the big blind betting the minimum amount and the smallblind usually half of the big blind. These usually increase each time thedealer button goes around the table.

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Half-Pot Limit: The betting minimums are as in limit poker, but players mayraise up to half the size of the pot (on top of their bet).

Pot Limit: Players can raise up to the size of the pot.

No Limit: Players can raise up to their entire chip stack.

4.4 - Format (Sit and Go vs. Tournament)

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A Sit and Go game is played with the player and up to 5 opponents (making 6possible players total) all at one table with identical stacks of $1000. Theobject is to eliminate all of your opponents.

A Tournament is played with many more players (from 40 to 200+), all startingwith identical stacks. The player is put at the table with 5 other opponents,and as players are eliminated, new players are put at the table.

There is no"splitting the table" as is the case in real life tournaments, which can be tothe player's disadvantage. The players at the other tables are simulated by thegame (somewhat poorly), and a count of how many players remain is provided ateach blind increase. The object is, again, to eliminate all of your opponents.

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5) EARNING MONEY

A newly created character is given $1000 in off-line money and $1000 in on-linemoney. Obviously, the goal is to earn as much money as possible. To understandhow to accomplish this, you need to look at the reward structure (how muchmoney you earn for placing in which position) of the various games.

5.1 - Buy-ins

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Each game has a cost for playing that is deducted from the player's bankroll.This is composed of two parts, the part "in the pot" that goes to the prizesgiven in the game, and the "entry fee", which simulates the house's percentage.For Sit and Go games, this is explicitly stated (such as a $30+$3 game, where$30 goes to the pot and $3 to the house).

For the tournaments, it is hidden inthe buy-in (a $22 buy-in is actually $20+$2, a $2700 buy-in is actually$2500+$200, and so on). This affects the amount awarded for each place (thetournament structure), and so we have to take this into account in calculatinghow much we can win in each tournament.

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As the cost of Sit and Gos and Tournaments increase, the entry fee percentagegets smaller, starting at 10% and decreasing to around 7% for the highest buy-ins. Therefore, as the player earns more money, they should go for the higherbuy-ins. A smaller percentage going to the house is more that is in the pot andavailable to win.

5.2 - Sit and Go Structures

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The structure of a game is the amount of the buy-in, the type of game, numberof players, and the rewards given for placing. Sit and Go games can have 2,4,or 6 players, all varieties of poker listed above, and all limits (all of theseare the player's choice).

The buy-ins are as follows (listed as pot+fee, with fee percentage):

$20+$2 (fee=10%)

$30+$3 (fee=10%)

$50+$5 (fee=10%)

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$100+$9 (fee=9%)

$200+$15 (fee=8.5%)

$500+$40 (fee=8%)

$1000+$80 (fee=8%)

$1500+$120 (fee=8%)

$2000+$160 (fee=8%)

$2500+$200 (fee=8%)

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$5000+$400 (fee=8%)

$10K+$700 (fee=7%)

$15K+$1050 (fee=7%)

$20K+$1400 (fee=7%)

$25K+$1750 (fee=7%)

$30K+$2100 (fee=7%)

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$35K+$2450 (fee=7%)

$40K+$2800 (fee=7%)

$50K+$3500 (fee=7%)

$100K+$7000 (fee=7%)

Based on the number of players, placing in a certain position pays according tothe following tables, given as percentages of the pot. Also included in thetable is the break-even point (BEP), which is the point where the player willhave earned an amount at least equal to the buy-in (i.e. they will at least"break even").

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For 2 players:

1st: 100% (BEP)

2nd: 0

For 4 players:

1st: 70%

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2nd: 30% (BEP)

3rd+: 0

For 6 players:

1st: 50%

2nd: 30%

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3rd: 20% (BEP)

4th+: 0

5.3 - Tournament Structures

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Tournament structure is a little different. The name, type, buy-in and possibleprize (for winning) are listed, and the number of players are randomly selectedwithin a certain range. Limit is also fixed, and is given on the scroll bar atthe bottom of the screen.

The payout table is determined based on the number ofplayers. Placing and/or winning certain tournaments opens up new tournaments tocompete in, generally with higher buy-ins and prizes. At the highest level,free invitationals are opened, which have no buy-in at all.

Some important things to note:

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The fee is hidden in the buy-in, but again, generally falls between 7-10% as inSit and Go, with higher buy-ins having lower percentages. This information isgiven in the charts below.

The prizes given for winning are not correct. They vary based on the number ofplayers, and are usually (but not always) higher than listed. This is alsolisted in the charts, as a range of values.

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Some tournaments can have a range of number of players that allows it twopossible structures (say, a 60-120 player tournament, which has one structurefor 60-100 and another for 100-120 players). Usually, you can tell by how manyremain in the tournament after the first hand.

5.4 - Tournament Listing

Here is a list of all the available tournaments, with type, buy-in, number ofplayers, a range of first place prizes, starting chip count, and tournamentopening information (which tournaments open and are opened by this tournament):

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(Note: In a lot of instances, the game's information on the tournament entryscreen is incomplete, if not completely wrong. Thus, I have listed all of thecorrect information below.)

-> Daily Limit Tournament: Limit Texas Hold'Em

$20+$2 buy-in, 40-100 players

$200 starting chips, $320-$800 first place

Available: At start

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Opens: None

-> Daily Limit Omaha: Limit Omaha

$20+$2 buy-in, 40-100 players

$200 starting chips, $320-$800 first place

Available: At start

Opens: None

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-> Daily Limit Pineapple: Limit Pineapple

$20+$2 buy-in, 40-100 players

$200 starting chips, $320-$800 first place

Available: At start

Opens: Pineapple Cavalcade (place)

-> Daily Limit Tahoe: Limit Tahoe

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$20+$2 buy-in, 40-100 players

$200 starting chips, $320-$800 first place

Available: At start

Opens: Tahoe Pot (place)

-> Daily 7-card Stud: No Limit 7-card Stud

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$20+$2 buy-in, 40-100 players

$200 starting chips, $320-$800 first place

Available: At start

Opens: King of the Cards (place)

-> Weekly Tournament: No Limit Texas Hold'Em

$100+$9 buy-in, 60-120 players

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$500 starting chips, $2400-$4200 first place

Available: At start

Opens: Weekly Super Hold'Em (place)

-> Weekly Omaha: No Limit Omaha

$100+$9 buy-in, 60-120 players

$500 starting chips, $2400-$4200 first place

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Available: At start

Opens: Kings of the Felt (place)

-> Weekly Super Hold'Em: No Limit Super Hold'Em

$100+$9 buy-in, 60-120 players

$500 starting chips, $2400-$4200 first place

Available: Weekly Tournament (place)

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Opens: None

-> Crazy Weekly: No Limit Crazy Pineapple

$100+$9 buy-in, 60-120 players

$500 starting chips, $2400-$4200 first place

Available: At start

Opens: Crazy for the Felt (place)

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-> Poker Cavalcade: Limit Texas Hold'Em

$500+$40 buy-in, 40-80 players

$500 starting chips, $8K-$16K first place

Available: At start

Opens: Aces High Showdown (place)

-> Pineapple Cavalcade: Limit Pineapple

$500+$40 buy-in, 40-80 players

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$500 starting chips, $8K-$16K first place

Available: Daily Limit Pineapple (place)

Opens: None

-> Shanghai Cavalcade: Limit Shanghai

$500+$40 buy-in, 40-80 players

$500 starting chips, $8K-$16K first place

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Available: At start

Opens: None

-> Kings of the Felt: No Limit Omaha

$1000+$80 buy-in, 40-100 players

$200 starting chips, $16K-$40K first place

Available: Weekly Omaha (place)

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Opens: Aces High Omaha (place)

-> Crazy for the Felt: No Limit Crazy Pineapple

$1000+$80 buy-in, 40-100 players

$200 starting chips, $16K-$40K first place

Available: Crazy Weekly (place)

Opens: Crazy Aces High (place)

-> King of the Cards: No Limit 7-card Stud

$1000+$80 buy-in, 40-100 players

$200 starting chips, $16K-$40K first place

Available: Daily 7-card Stud (place)

Opens: Aces High Stud (place)

-> Pot O'Gold: Pot Limit Texas Hold'Em

$1500+$120 buy-in, 50-150 players

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$1000 starting chips, $30K-$78.75K first place

Available: At start

Opens: Best of the West 1 (place)

-> Double Pot: Pot Limit Double Flop Hold'Em

$1500+$120 buy-in, 50-150 players

$1000 starting chips, $30K-$78.75K first place

Available: At start

Opens: None

-> Tahoe Pot: Pot Limit Tahoe

$1500+$120 buy-in, 50-150 players

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$1000 starting chips, $30K-$78.75K first place

Available: Daily Limit Tahoe (place)

Opens: Best of the West 2 (place)

-> Aces High Showdown: Half-Pot Limit Texas Hold'Em

$2500+$200 buy-in, 50-150 players

$400 starting chips, $50K-$131.25K first place

Available: Kings of the Felt (place)

Opens: WCP Mini Championship (place)

-> Crazy Aces High: Half-Pot Limit Crazy Pineapple

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$2500+$200 buy-in, 50-150 players

$400 starting chips, $50K-$131.25K first place

Available: Crazy for the Felt (place)

Opens: Crazy 8 Open (place)

-> Aces High Omaha: Half-Pot Limit Omaha

$2500+$200 buy-in, 50-150 players

$400 starting chips, $50K-$131.25K first place

Available: Kings of the Felt (place)

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Opens: Omaha Open (place)

-> Aces High Stud: Half-Pot Limit 7-card Stud

$2500+$200 buy-in, 50-150 players

$400 starting chips, $50K-$131.25K first place

Available: King of the Cards (place)

Opens: WCP Showdown 4 (win)

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-> Best of the West 1: No Limit Texas Hold'Em

$5000+$400 buy-in, 100-200 players

$500 starting chips, $175K-$350K first place

Available: Aces High Showdown (place)

Opens: None

-> Best of the West 2: No Limit Tahoe

$5000+$400 buy-in, 100-200 players

$500 starting chips, $175K-$350K first place

Available: Tahoe Pot (place)

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Opens: Tahoe Regional Finals (win)

-> Best of the West 3: No Limit Billabong

$5000+$400 buy-in, 100-200 players

$500 starting chips, $175K-$350K first place

Available: At start

Opens: None

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-> Best of the West 4: No Limit Super Hold'Em

$5000+$400 buy-in, 100-200 players

$500 starting chips, $175K-$350K first place

Available: At start

Opens: WCP Best of the West 2 (place)

-> Omaha Open: Pot Limit Omaha

$5000+$400 buy-in, 120-250 players

$1000 starting chips, $210K-$375K first place

More World Championship Poker Tips:

Available: Aces High Omaha (place)

Opens: Omaha Open Invitational (win)

-> Crazy 8 Open: No Limit Crazy Pineapple

$5000+$400 buy-in, 80-160 players

$1000 starting chips, $160K-$280K first place

Available: Crazy Aces High (place)

Opens: WCP Showdown 3 (win)

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-> Omaha Island Finale: No Limit Omaha

$10K+$700 buy-in, 40-80 players

$1000 starting chips, $160K-$320K first place

Available: At start

Opens: WCP Showdown 2 (place)

-> Pineapple Champs: No Limit Pineapple

$10K+$700 buy-in, 60-120 players

$1000 starting chips, $240K-$420K first place

Available: At start

Opens: WCP Invitational 2 (win)

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-> Limit Hold'Em Heroes: Limit Texas Hold'Em

$10K-$700 buy-in, 120-250 players

$1000 starting chips, $420K-$750K first place

Available: At start

Opens: WCP Best of the West 1 (place)

-> WCP Mini Championship: No Limit Texas Hold'Em

$15K+$1050 buy-in, 60-120 players

$1000 starting chips, $360K-$630K first place

Available: Aces High Showdown (place)

More World Championship Poker Tips:

opens: WCP Showdown 1 (place)

-> Crazy Pineapple Finals: No Limit Crazy Pineapple

$15K+$1050 buy-in, 80-160 players

$1000 starting chips, $480K-$840K first place

Available: At start

Opens: Crazy Pineapple Invitational (win)

-> Tahoe Regional Finals: No Limit Tahoe

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$15K+$1050 buy-in, 120-250 players

$1000 starting chips, $630K-$1.125M first place

Available: Best of the West 2 (place)

Opens: WCP Invitational 1 (win)

-> State Poker Finals (Hold'Em): No Limit Texas Hold'Em

$25K+$1750 buy-in, 120-250 players

$2000 starting chips, $1.05M-$1.875M first place

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Available: At start

Opens: WCP World Championship (place)

-> State Poker Finals (Omaha): No Limit Omaha

$25K+$1750 buy-in, 100-200 players

$2000 starting chips, $875K-$1.75M first place

Available: At start

Opens: Omaha World Championship (place)

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-> WCP Best of the West 1: No Limit Texas Hold'Em

$50K+$3500 buy-in, 100-200 players

$2000 starting chips, $1.75M-$3.5M first place

Available: Limit Hold'Em Heroes (place)

Opens: Big Slick Invitational (win)

-> WCP Best of the West 2: No Limit Super Hold'Em

$50K+$3500 buy-in, 100-200 players

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$2000 starting chips, $1.75M-$3.5M first place

Available: Best of the West 4 (place)

Opens: No Limit Invitational (win)

-> WCP Showdown 1: No Limit Texas Hold'Em

$100K+$7K buy-in, 30 players

$5000 starting chips, $1.2M first place

Available: WCP Mini Championship (place)

Opens: WCP World Invitational (win)

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-> WCP Showdown 2: No Limit Omaha

$100K+$7K buy-in, 30 players

$5000 starting chips, $1.2M first place

Available: Omaha Island Finale (place)

Opens: WCP Aces Invitational (win)

-> WCP Showdown 3: No Limit Crazy Pineapple

$100K+$7K buy-in, 30 players

$5000 starting chips, $1.2M first place

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Available: Crazy 8 Open (win)

Opens: WCP National Invitational (win)

-> WCP Showdown 4: No Limit 7-card Stud

$100K+$7K buy-in, 30 players

$5000 starting chips, $1.2M first place

Available: Aces High Stud (win)

Opens: WCP Invitational 3 (win)

-> Omaha Champs Invitational: No Limit Omaha

$0 buy-in, 6 players

$5000 starting chips, $25K first place

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Available: Omaha Open (win)

Opens: None (closes one tournament)

-> Crazy Pineapple Invitational: No Limit Crazy Pineapple

$0 buy-in, 6 players

$5000 starting chips, $25K first place

Available: Crazy Pineapple Finals (win)

Opens: None (closes one tournament)

-> WCP Invitational 1: No Limit Tahoe

$0 buy-in, 6 players

$5000 starting chips, $25K first place

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Available: Tahoe Regional Finals (win)

Opens: None (closes one tournament)

-> WCP Invitational 2: No Limit Pineapple

$0 buy-in, 6 players

$5000 starting chips, $25K first place

Available: Pineapple Champs (win)

Opens: None (closes one tournament)

-> WCP Invitational 3: No Limit 7-card Stud

$0 buy-in, 6 players

$5000 starting chips, $50K first place

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Available: WCP Showdown (win)

Opens: None (closes one tournament)

-> Big Slick Invitational: No Limit Texas Hold'Em

$0 buy-in, 6 players

$5000 starting chips, $50K first place

Available: WCP Best of the West 1 (win)

Opens: None (closes one tournament)

-> No Limit Invitational: No Limit Super Hold'Em

$0 buy-in, 6 players

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$5000 starting chips, $100K first place

Available: WCP Best of the West 2 (win)

Opens: None (closes one tournament)

-> WCP National Invitational: No Limit Crazy Pineapple

$0 buy-in, 6 players

$5000 starting chips, $250K first place

Available: WCP Showdown 3 (win)

Opens: None (closes one tournament)

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-> WCP Aces Invitational: No Limit Omaha

$0 buy-in, 6 players

$5000 starting chips, $500K first place

Available: WCP Showdown 2 (win)

Opens: None (closes one tournament)

-> WCP World Invitational: No Limit Texas Hold'Em

$0 buy-in, 6 players

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$5000 starting chips, $500K first place

Available: WCP Showdown 1 (win)

Opens: None (closes one tournament)

-> Omaha World Championship: No Limit Omaha

$40K+$2800 buy-in, 60-120 players

$4000 starting chips, $960K-$1.68M first place

Available: State Poker Finals (Omaha) (place)

Opens: None

-> WCP World Championship: No Limit Texas Hold'Em

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$50K+$3500 buy-in, 150-300 players

$5000 starting chips, $2.625M-$4.5M first place

Available: State Poker Finals (Hold'Em) (place)

Opens: None

Note: Invitationals open by winning the appropriate tournament, and close oncethey are participated in. Entering an invitational also closes one othertournament, starting at Poker Cavalcade and working downward in the listing.

These tournaments, and the invitationals themselves, can be reopened byfulfilling the requirements again, with the exception of tournaments availableat the start (such as Shanghai Cavalcade, or Double Pot). These are permanentlyclosed and cannot be reopened.

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5.5 - Tournament Payout Table

There are 4 payouts for tournaments, based on the number of players, given hereas percentages of the pot with BEP listed.

-> For 30-60 players:

1st : 40%

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2nd : 22%

3rd : 10%

4th : 7%

5th : 6%

6th : 5%

7th : 4%

8th : 3% (BEP)

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9th : 2%

10th : 1%

11th+ : 0

-> For 60-100 players:

1st : 40%

2nd : 20%

3rd : 10%

4th : 5%

5th : 4%

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6th-9th : 3%

10th-12th : 2% (BEP)

13th-15th : 1%

16th+ : 0

-> For 100-200 players:

1st : 35%

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2nd : 20%

3rd : 10%

4th : 7%

5th : 5%

6th-10th : 2%

11th-14th : 1.6%

15th-20th : 1.1% (BEP)

21st+ : 0

-> For 200+ players (* places are estimated):

1st : 30%

2nd : 17.5%

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3rd : 12%

4th : 6.5%

5th : 5%

6th : 4%

7th : 3%

8th : 2%

9th-12th : 1%

13th-16th : 0.9%

17th-23rd : 0.7% (*)

24th-31st : 0.5% (*) (BEP)

32nd-45th : 0.25% (*)

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46th+ : 0

The last couple of places in the 200+ tournament are estimates. In that large atournament, players drop out so quickly (see Section 3.4) in those places thatensuring that an accurate payout amount for any particular place is difficult,especially since other players not at the current table (and thus invisible tothe player) may have gone out at the same time, leading to split payouts.

However, in a strategic sense, those values are of little importance. Youshould have little trouble finishing 16th or better a majority of the time inthose tournaments.

6) STRATEGY FOR PLAYING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP POKER

In these sections, we'll look at a basic strategy for playing WorldChampionship Poker.

First, note that while Sit and Gos are quick, generally a better return can begained through the tournaments, especially since the player can take advantageof several tendencies in the game more easily in the tournament structure thanin Sit and Gos.

Also, the tournaments are more lucrative given the amount ofmoney invested (a $20+$2 Sit and Go earns $50 for first place, but a $20+$2tournament can earn from $320-$800, given the number or players involved).

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However, in the early going, Sit and Gos are a reliable way to earn money forthe tournament buy-ins.

6.1 - Break Even Points and Earning Money

Whether you are playing Sit and Go or Tournament, take note of the payoutstructure, especially the break even points (noted as BEP). This is where youhave to place to earn your money back. For Sit and Gos with 6 players (which isprobably the best structure for Sit and Go), it's third place. For tournaments,it varies based on the number of players, as listed in the tables above.

6.2 - Sit and Go Strategy

Sit and Go playing should usually be played with the maximum 6 opponents,making the break-even point third place. This is because the computeropponents' strategies are relatively easy to exploit at novice level (less soat higher difficulty, though they are still present).

Fairly solid, tight playshould ensure a player places at least third (and thus, makes money), at least70-80% of the time (if not more), especially at a high limit (pot- or no-limit). This is a great way to earn entry fees for the tournaments.

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As for choosing an amount to buy-in, you want to take into account your currentbankroll. While you are learning, I suggest playing for close to the minimum(say $20-$50) and at a limit game so that mistakes do not cost you much in theway of chips, or money. After some experience, go for the largest amount thatyou can reasonably afford, keeping in mind your bankroll and the possibility oflosing.

There is always a possibility that you will go broke, due to luck or therandomness of the cards (unless you cheat). Mathematicians call this the"possibility of ruin" or "possibility of absorbsion" (in gambling chainanalysis, $0 is called an "absorbsion point", because once you are broke, youcan't earn any more money).

With the high possibility that you will earn money,this possibility of ruin is not likely, but it should be taken into account. Agood safeguard against ruin is to always play Sit and Go games where the buy-inis less than a quarter (1/4) of your current bankroll.

This will reduce yourchances of ruin in 4 tries at that buy-in to less than 1% (given 70+%possibility of winning money).

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As your bankroll gets higher, you should probably look to tournaments to gainmoney, and use a max buy-in Sit and Go ($100K+$7000) to replenish yourbankroll, or just as a change of pace.

These tend to be games where you will "grind" your opponents down usingsuperior tactics and pot-odds. When you are the superior player at the table(and after you learn basic strategy for these games, you will be), you shouldseek to slowly exploit the weakness of the computer players, and gain yourchips a little at a time.

This is not to say that you shouldn't take theopportunity to bust one of your opponents (which you have vastly outplayed in ahand), but you shouldn't be actively seeking an all-or-nothing proposition withthem where you feel that you have only a marginal advantage.

When in doubt,check the pot down or fold, and wait for a better hand.

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After winning a few of the lower level limit games, start experimenting withhigher limit games at low cost. The strategies there are a little different,due mainly to a higher "variance" at these games, by which I mean that therisks and rewards are higher.

Proper play earns more money, but mistakes costmore at higher limits. The play goes much faster, but the strategy is still togrind your opponents down.

6.3 - Tournament Strategy

In tournaments, the number of opponents is randomly determined within a setrange at the beginning of the tournament. You will generally not know how manyplayers there were at the start of the tournament, but will see a number ofplayers remaining after the first hand is over.

This is not the actual startingamount, as we will see in the next section, but we can estimate the startingnumber from this. If you make it to the last table (6 players left), the actualamount of players can also be estimated by the chip count, or by the payoutswhen players are eliminated.

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It is actually to the player's benefit to have as many players in thetournament as possible, both to increase the payouts and, somewhatparadoxically, to also increase the likelihood of earning money.

This is due toan easily exploitable flaw in the game in regards to off-table eliminations(detailed in the next section).

In general, the strategy for tournaments is similar to Sit and Go, with a fewexceptions. The general strategy it to grind the opponents down, but also to avoid gambling in cases where waiting a hand or two is likely to move theplayer up in "real" money (to a position with a higher payout).

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For example, it is best not to go all-in on a good, but not great, hand whenyou have an opponent extremely short stacked with 11 players left in atournament that started with 100-200 players.

The reason is 11th place pays1.6% (which is what you will earn if you go all-in and lose), whereas if youfold the hand and wait, the odds are that the short stack will be eliminatedsoon, moving you to at least 10th place (which pays 2%).

The difference of 0.4%doesn't sound like much, but for a $5000+$400 buy-in tournament, it's $2000-3000 (about half of the buy-in). The computer opponents do not alter theirbasic strategy for these cases, so you certainly should.

6.4 - Off-table Eliminations

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Easily the player's greatest advantage to the tournament structure is thegenerally passive way that the opponents play at the player's table, comparedto the hyper-aggressive algorithm for off-table play.

Computer opponentsliterally give their money away off-table, leading to an inordinate amount ofoff-table eliminations.

Here's a quick example from my own game. I bought in to the State Poker Finals(Omaha) tournament (100-200 players), and was given the usual $2000 in chips. Isaw after the first hand there were 112 players remaining.

In this particulartournament, I started watching the payouts as players were eliminated and foundthem to be a little high, so when I made it to the final table, I did a quickchip count of all the players at the table and the blinds and antes.

It totaledclose to $250K in chips (since the game uses the same K notation for thousandsas I do here, it suffers some round-off error). That means 125 players startedthe tournament ($250K/$2K per player).

Payouts (from the payout table above)confirmed my calculation that there were 125 players at the start. That meansthat 13 players (over 10% of the field) were eliminated IN ONE HAND!

I laterconfirmed that for all tournaments, around 7-12% of the field is eliminated inthat first hand, and it stays pretty high throughout the rest of thetournament.

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This means that a rather tight approach is best with the tournament structure.Since a lot of your competition is getting eliminated off-camera, there'slittle need to gamble early.

You still want to get a pot now and then, andmaybe double up once or twice, but most of the time you can quietly foldmarginal-to-poor hands, and watch the number of players remaining (given everytime the dealer button goes completely around the table) drop lower and lower.

Off-table eliminations abruptly stop at exactly 16 players remaining, everytime. That means every player from 16th position on must be eliminated at yourtable (by you or another opponent).

That's actually to the player'sdisadvantage (you can't wait players out as much), but 16th position is usuallyclose to or past the break-even point (for large tournaments), so this makestournaments quite lucrative, money wise.

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There is one other minor drawback to this. To determine the chip count for newplayers sitting at your table, the game calculates a random amount based on thechips remaining (off-table) and the number of players remaining (off-table).

With the high amount of eliminations off-table, the off-table chip count willbe quite high and the number of players off-table low. This means that playersentering your table often have very high chip counts (when compared to yours),so that you will be playing short stacked a lot of the time.

Fortunately, thestrategy algorithm is not very adept at exploiting it's large stack, whereasthere are ways to exploit your short stack, so it's not an overwhelmingdisadvantage.

7) OPPONET BETTING STRATEGIES

Here, we discuss the betting strategies of the computer opponents.

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For the most part, the strategies of the computer opponents remain the sameregardless of difficulty level. The real difference in difficulty comes fromthe change in betting style.

Novice opponents are typically callers or folders before the flop (oftenchasing with very little), raise very rarely preflop (and usually have a highpair when they do so, typically AA-JJ), and are usually content to check a handdown to the river.

They are rather quick to abandon a hand when confronted witha bet/raise, except for the last player, who calls quite often (so, don'texpect to win with a weak bluff all the time).

They tend to "school" togetherto defeat the player, meaning they tend to hang around in hands together,leading to a high amount of beats at the turn/river (since there's moreplayers, there's more likelihood that someone will draw out).

They tend to bettightly, only when they have something (say, a high pair, top or middle, orbetter). There is almost no bluffing (it does happen, but rarely, so don't callif all you can beat is a bluff).

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Amateur players bet a little more before the flop, so you might see a few moreraises (usually they could have pairs through 88, or AK/AQ suited or unsuited).They chase with trash hands less often. They are still content to check down ahand, release a made hand a little less often when confronted by a bet.

Bettingis more aggressive, but still fairly measured, making it a little harder to putthem on a hand. Schooling is still present, though less prevalent. Bluffs startshowing up more frequently, usually as late blind steals or on the river inchecked-down pots (but still rare).

Professional players are like amateur players, only moreso. Since this is aguide for beginning players, if you have advanced to this level of difficulty,you should be more than equipped for the challenge.

7.1 - Exploiting the Opponents

For novice players, aggressive betting works wonders at getting opponents tofold, but there will usually be one left, so don't go all-in on a cold blufftrying to run everyone out. When you're betting, have something.

This should be balanced with tight requirements for getting in a hand, sinceyou can usually wait out around 16th position in a tournament.

There is usually not a need to steal blinds (make high raises in late positionto get the blinds and antes) until very late in the tournament, and maybe noteven then if you are winning pots often. Similarly, you should usually let theblinds go when raised in late position (they usually have a high pair, and arenot stealing).

Amateur players don't always fold to aggressive betting, so be more measured inyour bets/raises. However, they do fold on occasion if they think they're beat,so bluffing is actually a little more effective, but still should be done veryrarely.

You should defend your blinds to a steal attempt with a good hand, butotherwise play relatively tight (again, you can wait out 16th place). These samethings, but more of them, apply to the professional level.

Here are a few other strategies that seem to work well on the computeropponents.

7.2 - Semi-bluffing

Semi-bluffing is betting with a hand that is generally weaker than needed towin (so, you are not the best hand), however, contains strong draws to thebest.

It is usually done after the flop when the flop did not give you a pair(or maybe a weak pair), but you have either a flush draw (4 to a flush), anopen-end straight draw (4 to a straight, all together), a high inside straightdraw (4 to a straight, with the missing card inside, with a lot of high cards),or, occasionally, two overcards (two cards in your hand higher than the board).

It attempts to take the pot immediately by forcing all opponents to fold (thebluff), but, if called, still has outs to any made hand.

Semi-bluffing usually drives out opponents fairly well (especially at novicedifficulty), but usually leaves you heads up with 1 player, rather than winningthe pot immediately.

The last player just can't seem to give up the hand, soyou will likely be drawing against a fair hand (probably top or middle pair).This is still not quite as bad as it seems, because, had you checked, you wouldbe drawing against 2 or more opponents, therefore increasing your winning chances dramatically.

For novice players, the lowest postflop bet of the big blind is generallyenough, so it can be done cheaply. You may be raised back, which then requiresa pot odds analysis to see if you should call. Higher difficulty players athigher limits require a little higher bet (say, 1/4 the size of the pot) to getit to work.

The best part about the semi-bluff is that it can be used in combination withthe "bait and reel" to give great profits if you draw out, but relativelyinexpensive losses when you do not.

7.3 - The "Bait and Reel"

The "Bait and Reel" is one of the most lucrative strategies for flop betting,and, once it is mastered, will be one of your best money winners. It is basedon a simple observation of the opponent player's reaction to a re-raise.

When an opponent player bets a pot, and the player raises back to him, healmost always calls, no matter the size of the raise or pot, and often re-raises, if possible.

This also seems to work if the player bets, and the opponent raises him back.The opponent, again, seems to call any re-raise.

An actual example from a hand played at the end of a tournament, me versus 1computer opponent, heads up:

After blinds and antes: around $1500 in potPlayer has $80K chips, dealt Q7, with small blind $500Opponent has $74K chips, dealt K2s, with big blind $1000

After a call of the big blind and a check, pot holds around $2K.

Flop: 7K7, one 7 of opponent's suit (player has trip 7's, opponent has pair+2card "backdoor" flush draw)

Player: Bets minimum $1K (pot has $3K) (the "bait")

Opponent: Raises $5K (pot has $9K)

Player: Re-raise all-in $79K (pot has $88K) (the "reel")

Opponent: Calls all-in $69K (pot has $150K: $6K back to Player)

And the trip 7's hold up to win me the tournament.

Most human opponents, faced with the all-in re-raise, would fold all but thebest hands, but the computer opponents have evidently decided that once theyraise, they are pot-committed, and call all re-raises.

This tendency gives rise to the "Bait and Reel" which works as follows:

After the flop if you have a great hand or an excellent draw (such as a flushdraw or high open-end straight draw), bet the minimum (or a quarter of thepot). This will drive out opponents, usually leaving 1 left.

That opponent mayraise immediately, in which case if your hand is made, go all-in (or themaximum allowed).

If not, or you only have a draw, see the turn and/or river.If you have at any time made a hand, bet the minimum again, look for a raise,and re-raise all-in. If your draw doesn't come, check-fold at the river.

If you are first to act, you can also check/re-raise all-in with the sameresults.

Since you generally have only one opponent, outdraws are rare, and you willusually either double up (if you were the short stack) or eliminate theopponent (if he was).

Note 1: Obviously, in limited games, you may not be able to go all-in, but evenif you re-raise the maximum, the opponent often just re-raises you again,allowing you to again re-raise the max. It can also often be repeated on theturn and river if the opponent still has a good, but second-best hand.

Note 2: Also, obviously, make sure you have the best hand or draw when you dothis. It's a bad feeling when you "bait and reel" on a straight draw, make thestraight, go all-in, then lose to a flush/full house.

8) BASIC STRATEGY : TEXAS HOLD'EM

Here is a basic, semi-aggressive betting strategy for Texas Hold'Em. Thisstrategy can be modified for the other variations of Hold'Em that the game has.Omaha and 7-card stud are somewhat different from regular Texas Hold'Em, sorequire a little different strategy, and so have separate sections.

8.1 - Preflop Initial Hands

For most beginners, the main error in pre-flop strategy is to play too manyhands. The computer opponents tend to be this way as well, often calling andchecking to the end with utter trash hands (especially at novice difficulty).

This, combined with high attrition off-table, suggests rather tightrequirements for staying in a hand pre-flop. This assures that once you are ina hand, the odds are that you are the favorite.

Note that this is often NOT the case in live tournaments, although a tightstrategy can sometimes be helpful there as well.

So, to call or raise a hand before the flop, the following tables can be usedto serve as a basic guideline for beginners.

Hands are rated here on an "aggression index", indicating how strong a hand isin a given position, from 0 (worst, and should almost always be folded) to 10(best, and should almost always be raised), and a suggested strategy, which can(and should) be modified for the specific situation:

10: Raise, and re-raise

9: Raise, and call if raised

8: Marginal raise/call hand, may call if re-raised

7: Call, but might raise if desperate

6: Call

5: Call

4: Call

3: Marginal call/fold

2: Call if desperate, otherwise fold

1: Fold, call only if extremely short stacked

0: Fold

After you have become accustomed to which cards are worth playing, thisaggression index can be modified for different playing conditions.

Some suggested modifications are:

Limpers: after the first limper, subtract 0.5-1 from index for each limper

Short Handed: Add 0.5-1 per each seat empty

Blind Steals: If raised by button or small blind, call on an index of 5-6 ormore (rather than 7-8)

Move toward more aggression as you are short stacked (see the M statistic in section 6.3)

8.2 - Postflop Betting

After the flop, remember that the computer players rarely bluff, so it is sameto assume that they are betting with top to middle pair or better. You need tobeat that by the river to have a chance to win.

Semi-bluffing works well immediately after the flop if you have a flush or openstraight draw (see above).

If bet into, use the pot odds tables given in section 6.1 to see if you shouldcontinue. Remember that you may be raised on a high middle pair, so adjust yourouts accordingly.

Computer players (mostly at the novice difficulty) have a tendency to sit oncertain strong hands (like a small pocket pair improving to trips). This can beextremely frustrating if you flop top pair and they meekly call all the way. Ithappens rarely, but often enough that you should make note of it.

8.3 - Modifications for Hold'Em Variations

In the Pineapple and Crazy Pineapple games, you will be dealt 3 cards andforced to discard one later.

You should play these only if you have a goodopening hand in the three cards (and it should be slightly better than normal).The computer players here tend toward having higher cards, or pairs, so yoursshould be higher as well.

In Tahoe and Super Hold'Em, you get to keep all 3 cards. Again, you need a goodopening hand in these, again slightly stronger than normal. In Tahoe, you canonly use 2 cards in your hand, so a set of trips, 3-straight or 3-flush is notas good a hand as it looks (it's actually weaker than just two and anothercard). In Super, you can use all three cards, so those hands are much morepowerful.

Billabong is a little different. You must use at least 3 cards of your 4, soyou need cards that work together (connected, suited, or paired) to keep goingwith the hand before the flop.

Shanghai is like Tahoe, only the board card distribution changes (to 2-2-1). Itcan be played with similar opening hands as Tahoe.

2-flop Hold'Em is probably the most frustrating game of the bunch. Use the sameopening requirements, but don't bet into a hand unless you are fairly sure ofwinning one flop and may win the other. Many, many hands will be split(especially if only 2 handed at the river), and the end result for much of yourhard work will be only to get back the money you started with (plus maybe halfthe blinds and antes).

8.4 - Omaha Strategy

With Omaha, you need cards that work well in pairs. The best hands are handsthat have one or more of the following:

Pairs (but not 3 or 4 of a kind)Two cards (no more) of the same suit (the higher the better) to make flushesTwo or more cards close in rank to make straightsDouble suited (two cards in each of two suits)

Omaha is more a "drawing" game (getting the best draw to a flush, straight,trips/quads or full house).

A good opening system for Omaha was developed by Edward Hutchison andtested/modified by Mike Caro and is available online at the sites listed in theAcknowledgements.

8.5 - 7-card Stud Strategy

For 7-card stud, the best opening hands have:

3 of a kind

A high 3-flush or straight

A pocket pair (in the hidden cards)

A pair with the up card

Two overcards to the board

Again, a good detailed opening system for 7-card stud can be found on the siteslisted in the Acknowledgements.

9) OTHER OBSERVATIONS

Here is some other useful information relating to the game.

9.1 - Pot Odds for Texas Hold'Em

The pot odds for Texas Hold'Em are based on the fact that of the 52 cards inthe deck, after the flop 5 are known to the player (the 2 hole cards and the 3on the flop), thus leaving 47 unknown. Probabilities can then be calculatedbased on how many cards produce a winning hand (called outs) versus the 2162possible combination of turn/river cards.

The formula for the probability of drawing an out card on the turn/river wherep is the number of out cards in the remaining deck is then:

Prob. = (93*p - p^2) / 2162

The following table gives the outs, probability, and odds calculation of thatprobability (pot odds) after the flop:

( Outs Probability Pot Odds )

0 0 Infinite

0.5 0.0213922 45.75 to 1

1 0.0425532 22.5 to 1

1.5 0.0634829 14.75 to 1

2 0.0841813 10.88 to 1

2.5 0.1046485 8.56 to 1

3 0.1248844 7.01 to 1

3.5 0.1448890 5.9 to 1

4 0.1646624 5.07 to 1

4.5 0.1842044 4.43 to 1

5 0.2035153 3.91 to 1

5.5 0.2225948 3.49 to 1

6 0.2414431 3.14 to 1

6.5 0.2600601 2.85 to 1

7 0.2784459 2.59 to 1

7.5 0.2966004 2.37 to 1

8 0.3145236 2.18 to 1

8.5 0.3322155 2.01 to 1

9 0.3496762 1.86 to 1

9.5 0.3669056 1.73 to 1

10 0.3839038 1.6 to 1

10.5 0.4006707 1.5 to 1

11 0.4172063 1.4 to 1

11.5 0.4335839 1.31 to 1

12 0.4495839 1.22 to 1

12.5 0.4654255 1.15 to 1

13 0.4810361 1.08 to 1

13.5 0.4964154 1.01 to 1

14 0.5115634 0.95 to 1 (favored)

From 14 outs on, the player is the favorite, and should call.

Half outs are used when a card may or may not give the player the best hand(such as a middle pair, or a high pair but causes straight or flushpossibilities), or when adding backdoor draws (draws which require both turnand river cards).

In general:

Backdoor Flush draw = about 1.5 outs

Backdoor Open-End Straight Draw (ex. 5,6,7) = about 1.5 outs

Backdoor 1-gap Straight Draw (ex. 5,6,8) = about 1 out

Backdoor 2-gap Straight Draw (ex. 5,7,9) = about 0.5 outs

You may also take into account the future betting if you hit your draw, usingwhat is called "implied odds". This can add more to the pot in later rounds,making it profitable to continue if the odds are close.

This addition requiressome amount of estimation based on experience, but for limit games around 1-1.5the bet size on the turn/river works well.

For higher limits, it may be muchhigher (up to a percentage of the size of the smaller stack in no-limit). Theinterested player should consult the sources in the Acknowledgement section andtheir own experiences in calculating these implied odds.

After the turn, the calculation is much simpler. For p outs, the probabilityis:

Prob. = p / 46

Giving a calculated pot odds of:

Odds = (46 - p) / p to 1

There is also no need of backdoors (and not much need of half outs, either), sothe odds are:

Outs Probability Pot Odds

0 0 Infinite

1 0.0217391 45 to 1

2 0.0434783 22 to 1

3 0.0652174 14.33 to 1

4 0.0869565 10.5 to 1

5 0.1086957 8.2 to 1

6 0.1304348 6.67 to 1

7 0.1521739 5.57 to 1

8 0.1739130 4.75 to 1

9 0.1956522 4.11 to 1

10 0.2173913 3.6 to 1

11 0.2391304 3.18 to 1

12 0.2608696 2.83 to 1

13 0.2826087 2.54 to 1

14 0.3043478 2.29 to 1

15 0.3260870 2.06 to 1

16 0.3478261 1.88 to 1

17 0.3695652 1.71 to 1

18 0.3913043 1.56 to 1

19 0.4130435 1.42 to 1

20 0.4347826 1.3 to 1

21 0.4565217 1.19 to 1

22 0.4782609 1.09 to 1

23 0.5 1 to 1 (even)

After 23 outs, the player is the favorite, and should call.

To illustrate how to use these tables, here's an example:

Say you have K8 of clubs, and you have check/called all the way to the turnwith one opponent left. The pot has $600.

The board shows:

Ac,9s,Td,4c (two clubs on board)

You believe that your opponent has at least top pair (so, pair of aces orbetter). Your opponent bets $100. Should you call?

To win over the long term, you need odds of less than 7 to 1 (the $700 now inthe pot versus your $100 to call). You cannot win the hand unless you hit yourclub flush, so you need one of the 9 clubs left (you have 4, and the deck has13 total, so 9 remain). Therefore, you have 9 outs.

The table for the river cards has 9 outs at 4.11 to 1, which is less than the 7to 1 in the pot, so you should call.

If the opponent had raised $300 instead, you would need odds less than 3 to 1($900 in pot verses $300 to call = 3 to 1), so in that case, the pot odds sayto fold.

9.2 - Cheating

The player does have a cheat, of sorts, based on the random number generationtechniques used in the game.

At the start of a hand, before the cards are dealt, the console randomlydetermines the entire deck of cards, then starts dealing to the players.Therefore, if the player saves the game at this point (at the start of thehand), the cards dealt to each player, and on the board, are fixed in sequence.

So, if you bet on a pot, but are drawn out on, you can quit the game, reload,and the cards will be dealt in exactly the same way (in the Hold'Em varieties),allowing you to fold it early.

Or, if you folded a marginal hand that wouldhave won, you can reload and stay in to win the pot. The players involved inthe hand may change slightly (some may stay in that would have folded, or viceversa), and they may bet differently, but everything regarding the cards is thesame.

This is even more useful in 7-card stud, since by manipulating the number ofplayers left (by betting a lot to remove players or checking to keep them in),you can try to force certain cards to yourself.

For example, say you are dealt3 clubs. You call the bring-in with 3 other players, and see that a lot ofclubs are dealt to them early, but not to you, so you end up losing the hand.

If you saved at the beginning of the hand, you can replay the hand, but bet outto remove players. Now, instead of dealing cards to 4 players, you may haveonly 2 or 3, which means that, since the deck order is set, you may get thoseearly clubs, winning with a flush when you otherwise would have lost.

If you wish to cheat using these save techniques, I suggest saving on marginalhands and/or after every large pot win. You will find it most useful when youare required to win a tournament to open another one. Placing is easy enough tonot really need a lot of help, provided you are being measured in youraggression.

9.3 - The M Statistic

Magriel's M statistic is a measure of how aggressive you need to be at a givenpoint in a tournament, and is calculated by dividing your current stack by thetotal of the blinds and antes put in the pot.

For example:

If you have $3000 and the blinds are $50/$100 (no ante), your M statistic is:

3000 / (50 + 100) = 20

If you have $3000 and blinds are $150/$300 with an ante of $25, your Mstatistic is (assuming you have all 6 players at the table):

3000 / (150 + 300 + 25*6) = 5

More World Championship Poker Tips:

The lower the M is, the sooner the blinds and antes will break you, andtherefore the more aggressive you have to play. In our first example, the M was20, which is quite high, so you should not feel the need to vary much from basic tight strategy.

Our second example has an M of 5, which means that youneed to double up fairly soon, so should start looking for a fairly promisinghand to push all the way.

To determine how aggressive you need to be with a given M, Dan Harrington hasdeveloped the "Zone System" for his books (listed in the Acknowledgements),which is summarized below:

Green Zone (M = 20+): No need to vary from basic strategy

More World Championship Poker Tips:

Yellow Zone (M = 10-20): Start to be a little more aggressive with some hands(particularly high cards). Be ready to make a large (or all-in) bet on a goodflop/turn.

Orange Zone (M = 5-10): Need to become really aggressive on high index hands (7or above), re-raising all-in if raised before the flop. Your basic options aresee a flop cheaply, going all-in if it hit, or go all-in before the flop tosteal the blinds and antes.

More World Championship Poker Tips:

Red Zone (M = 1-5): Probably need to look to go all-in on any calling hand(index 4 or better), especially if your M is 3 or lower. Otherwise try to stealthe blinds.

Dead Zone (M < 1): Find any hand with an index 1-2 or higher and go all-in(especially if the blind is coming up), and hope for a good board, or everyonefolds.

More World Championship Poker Tips:

For World Championship Poker, the players are often so passive, and aggressivebetting so often rewarded, it is possible to modify this down somewhat (perhapsto 12+/6-12/3-6/1-3/<1), especially in limited games (Dan Harrington waswriting specifically about no limit tournaments).

The main point here is toavoid having the blinds eat away your stack waiting for good cards. If you areextremely short stacked, the best course of action is to find a decent handand push it.

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